Great pixs, authentic...my guess is that you have good balance....I've always enjoyed watching the surfers at the beach. Ever had an encounter with a shark?
practice and practice and practice, and the mindset saying, this balancing is cool and fun.
its hard for those uninitated
I cant surf, never - tried
but i can sure pull long wheelies on bikes, for blocks lengths (whole street, or two thats including wheelying around corners) some people thinks im gifted, nah thats bullshit, you see in my childhood, it was an unhappy one, i spent alot of time away from home, often in school yards practising just that (and jumps).
so it came with experience as well.
I doubt if ever learn surfing now, getting old and the reflexes aren't quick as it used to be, the reflex i speak off, it the intuitive one...the brain has to learn its environment and adapt - in this case, water, for my case it was torque and ground levels (and friction (tyres or tires to you americans)...feet pressure and balance point...surfing's balance point would be back leg pumping (to hold on the force of water that pushes you along?) and front leg would be directional (again im guessing here)...
its just practice and you can't practice alot if you keep falling off thinking it sux, and give up...thinking you'd make it somehow you have to perservere then the 'somehow' DO happen , sometimes alot sooner...
It did'nt took me long too learn wheelies when i was 12, i did 6 lampposts lengths in 6 weeks...well a freind back then showed me how, on a really crappy bike, (we all had crappy bikes, it was just then BMX's was coming into the country for the first time). I wanted a Redline, but got a NZ-made Pantha instead but still was a great bike...good memories on those...lots of it...snapping frames in half, breaking handlebars, breaking brakes, seats, replaced chains, i was rough! and i was a really skinny 12 year old at the time...
those pics are great authentic, looks like you had a ball, been on bigger waves? barrels?..guess you not ready for it yet, but still its cool waxing is half the fun, its like preparation for the 'attack on the waves' right? lol
good on ya