USB OBD II Scanner

[deafsmogtech]

Odd, My father just bought the new OBDII for $90 for himself from Costco and It do have FF (freeze frame data)

But I still dont like it because there is no real-time data.

I am agreed with you that code reader scanner is useless.

I browsed the INNOVA scan tools in the internet, flirts the INNOVA scan tool #3140 CAN OBD-II and OBD-I, cost $460, cheap price. I believe the Model 3140 scan tool is better than my old SnapOn MT2500. I sure afford to buy it but I wait next year to see if they change or update scan tools. The high end scan tools (over $3K to $10K?), can do anything like ABS, HVAC, BCM everthing. Some of them have built-in scope. I never been flash or reprogram the PCMs cuz I don't own the high end scan tool.

 

[The Highlander]

I browsed the INNOVA scan tools in the internet, flirts the INNOVA scan tool #3140 CAN OBD-II and OBD-I, cost $460, cheap price. I believe the Model 3140 scan tool is better than my old SnapOn MT2500. I sure afford to buy it but I wait next year to see if they change or update scan tools. The high end scan tools (over $3K to $10K?), can do anything like ABS, HVAC, BCM everthing. Some of them have built-in scope. I never been flash or reprogram the PCMs cuz I don't own the high end scan tool.

You should learn how to flash or reprogram the PCMs since you are tech.

I did two times and pretty easy than I thought but only from FACTORY OBD-II.

 

[deafsmogtech]

You should learn how to flash or reprogram the PCMs since you are tech.

I did two times and pretty easy than I thought but only from FACTORY OBD-II.

Really, I never work at the dealership that have everthing to do with flash or reprogram. The gas station owner couldnt afford to buy the equipments to do flash or reprogram the computers. Many experinced techs don't own any flash or reprogram boxes.

 

[deafsmogtech]

Yes, I saw it last week when changing oil on my 2007 Honda SUV at Lube Shop. They used handheld scanner for checking. Man showed it to me that battery is not good and require to replace new battery. I don't un why original battery is short life.

Honda TSB states, " Battery Cell Faulty or Deteriorated". That's what Purplecatty mentioned defective lead grids. I wonder Japanese bought Chinese
made batteries, they label the name of Yuswa or ???.
Same thing happen to the GM batteries (post sides), these batteries were Chinese made. Damn it.

 

[purplecatty]

Honda TSB states, " Battery Cell Faulty or Deteriorated". That's what Purplecatty mentioned defective lead grids. I wonder Japanese bought Chinese
made batteries, they label the name of Yuswa or ???.
Same thing happen to the GM batteries (post sides), these batteries were Chinese made. Damn it.

"Made In China" are almost every products we finds. Now China is a Economic Superpower huh?

Now what's next?

:rofl2:

Catty

 

[purplecatty]

Yeeeaahhh Finally !!

I got USB OBDII scanner. I just got it today and used my Dell Mini netbook (Cuz the software is for XP which it currently have.. My new Acer Aspire 1551 is Windows 7. It can run on it but I don't want to hassle with it. So Dell Mini is a "Mechainic diagnostic" computer now.) and installed softwares and driver (port and OBD USB driver) then plugged OBDII jack to 2005 Dodge Durango's OBDII jack. Plugged USB to netbook and ran EasyOBD software. It detected communication coming from OBDII scanner then clicked "Link to Automotive "computer" " and it finally talked. I clicked each buttons and it show data. On fault section, it says Fuel Injection circuity fault on Cylinder 4 and Recirculation fault. I took pix and you should see the reading of the fault.

It turned out that Oxygen Sensor not at fault. So I would have to see Cylinder 4 Fuel Injection wiring which may be loose. Other fault, I would have to google to find out what exactly it was unless one of you know what it is and tell me what exactly was that.

I will post Youtube video very soon to show how it works.

This nice little device cost me $24 and I bought it through Ebay. It came from China and it arrived pretty quickly in a week wow!!


Here's pix!

Catty

 

[The Highlander]

Yeeeaahhh Finally !!

I got USB OBDII scanner. I just got it today and used my Dell Mini netbook (Cuz the software is for XP which it currently have.. My new Acer Aspire 1551 is Windows 7. It can run on it but I don't want to hassle with it. So Dell Mini is a "Mechainic diagnostic" computer now.) and installed softwares and driver (port and OBD USB driver) then plugged OBDII jack to 2005 Dodge Durango's OBDII jack. Plugged USB to netbook and ran EasyOBD software. It detected communication coming from OBDII scanner then clicked "Link to Automotive "computer" " and it finally talked. I clicked each buttons and it show data. On fault section, it says Fuel Injection circuity fault on Cylinder 4 and Recirculation fault. I took pix and you should see the reading of the fault.

It turned out that Oxygen Sensor not at fault. So I would have to see Cylinder 4 Fuel Injection wiring which may be loose. Other fault, I would have to google to find out what exactly it was unless one of you know what it is and tell me what exactly was that.

I will post Youtube video very soon to show how it works.

This nice little device cost me $24 and I bought it through Ebay. It came from China and it arrived pretty quickly in a week wow!!


Here's pix!

Catty

Good job!

 

[purplecatty]

It turned out that EGR located very back of the engine near Intake Manifold( horrible spot!!!). I found one Dodge blog stating that you will have to lay on engine and have to unbolt and remove EGR valve blindly. I can do it no problem cuz I always fix thing blindly, feel my way in and get picture of what it look like mentally.

Cylinder #4 is just close to front according to google search on 4.7 L Durango firing order. Now that's easy part!. I will go for Fuel Injection wiring first then worry about EGR.

Catty

 

[The Highlander]

It turned out that EGR located very back of the engine near Intake Manifold( horrible spot!!!). I found one Dodge blog stating that you will have to lay on engine and have to unbolt and remove EGR valve blindly. I can do it no problem cuz I always fix thing blindly, feel my way in and get picture of what it look like mentally.

Cylinder #4 is just close to front according to google search on 4.7 L Durango firing order. Now that's easy part!. I will go for Fuel Injection wiring first then worry about EGR.

Catty

IF you found that Fuel Injection got plugged up or electric failed. Replace all fuel Injections as recommend.

 

[purplecatty]

IF you found that Fuel Injection got plugged up or electric failed. Replace all fuel Injections as recommend.

Not necessary, I doubt it's plugged up. It says "Circuity failure" so It could mean wiring may be loose on FJ jack or the coil inside is burnt out. If it's burnt out, I would only replace one. Actually FJ cost $100 or more EACH. I don't want to spend $800 for all 8 FJ, not worth it for a truck reaching 90k miles. Usually one FJ would be enough. If another one fails, I would get fault code from new OBD II scanner anyway. 99% of FJ would last past 200k miles without failure.

I believe that I somehow knocked FJ wire loose while changing sparkplugs (remmy my durango have COP on each cylinders). Sparkplug COP wire rigged to same wrapped group of wires along with FJ wires. I could have jerked it when I popped COP wire off.

I currently have 1996 Honda Accord LX and it's 170k miles. Bought it on New Year Day for my kid to drive. It have all original FJ in it and engine ran great. It went through two owners, mother and son. It's been well maintained. I'm going to check the Honda with OBD II scanner soon.

Catty

 

[deafsmogtech]

Awesome, pics show me so clear. Im jealous. Im surprise to see code P0202. I never seen this code before. Oh I see, it might explain why you interfere the injector connector or wire something. No concern it. Your scan will help you. No worry. Before you clear codes, you can find freeze frame data to review the codes to see how did code(s) set. One important you need to know is CTS, fuel trims, engine rpm, mph and load but your scan have more than these. I tell you that I never try on PC scan before cuz I use a shop's scan tool, no time for me to explore new pc scan. One reason is I know computer little. Im an old fashion mechanic.
Turn on pc scan toy.....

 

[deafsmogtech]

IF you found that Fuel Injection got plugged up or electric failed. Replace all fuel Injections as recommend.

I don't think the code P0202 causes plugged injector, could be electrical problem such as loose connector or female terminals or something. I dont think all fuel injectors need to replace cuz the Chrysler OBD-2 computers (PCM) are very sensitive to electrical, they can detect low or high voltage in fuel injectors or O2 sensors or any sensors or misfires or EGR or everything. I hope Catty's pc scan help him to diagnose the codes.

 

[deafsmogtech]

Catty, No concern about the EGR codes. The electronic EGR valve is control NOx, sometime it can be driveability problem. If you want to write down or print out the codes or freeze frame data before clear codes. Drive several miles as long as the MIL pop up. If same EGR code(s) then replace EGR valve. You can ignore it till state emission inspection to obtain a tag. Good Luck.
PS I ll look up the EGR codes in tech TSB to see if something come up then pm you ok. dst

 

[purplecatty]

I don't think the code P0202 causes plugged injector, could be electrical problem such as loose connector or female terminals or something. I dont think all fuel injectors need to replace cuz the Chrysler OBD-2 computers (PCM) are very sensitive to electrical, they can detect low or high voltage in fuel injectors or O2 sensors or any sensors or misfires or EGR or everything. I hope Catty's pc scan help him to diagnose the codes.

I just reset the plug on Fuel Injector #4. The Fault code still tells me that it's still FJ circuity malfunction on Cylinder #4. I will have to try wiggle and jiggle the main ECU jack that all FJ connected to. It could be a bad connection. Lastly, I would test it with voltmeter to see if FJ #4 coil bad or not.

As for EGR, I would have to do hell job removing it. ONE bad part for me this month are FREEZING weather out. Its already 5 degree in Kansas City!!! My hands would go numb. I DO have heater but problem are that I'm in garage but it's not powerful enough to kill the cold. I also have heat lamp too and it may help a bit cuz the EGR is far back of the engine behind Manifold and is under the Dashboard cowl (it's basically firewall you know). Heat lamp wont be enough to shine on my cold hands. I would probably fuss over it.

The USB OBD II Scanner is basically one channel device while your OBD II scanner at your shop can do 3 channels same time (professional grade OBD II scanner). It's version 1.4 which are the newest and there are software that you can purchase and use this scanner to tweak and tune the engine. I have 4 softwares. Most are Demo version but only one is full version that you saw on pix.

It's cheap in Ebay. $24 is cheap and works the same way as more expensive hand held obd II scanner.

So it's worth a try. You can afford it tho.

Catty

 

[deafsmogtech]

I got some infro from my tech hot line (IATN), they says disconnect battery (negative cable) for 2 minutes (one poster say 10 minutes), to erase the learn EGR value in PCM. One poster say to check EGR valve for carbon buildup or stuck in a pintle valve, if found , try to clean or remove small carbon build up from the pintle valve, re install EGR valve then disconnect battery as above. I ll check Identifix at my work tmw. HTH dst

 

[The Highlander]

Not necessary, I doubt it's plugged up. It says "Circuity failure" so It could mean wiring may be loose on FJ jack or the coil inside is burnt out. If it's burnt out, I would only replace one. Actually FJ cost $100 or more EACH. I don't want to spend $800 for all 8 FJ, not worth it for a truck reaching 90k miles. Usually one FJ would be enough. If another one fails, I would get fault code from new OBD II scanner anyway. 99% of FJ would last past 200k miles without failure.

I believe that I somehow knocked FJ wire loose while changing sparkplugs (remmy my durango have COP on each cylinders). Sparkplug COP wire rigged to same wrapped group of wires along with FJ wires. I could have jerked it when I popped COP wire off.

I currently have 1996 Honda Accord LX and it's 170k miles. Bought it on New Year Day for my kid to drive. It have all original FJ in it and engine ran great. It went through two owners, mother and son. It's been well maintained. I'm going to check the Honda with OBD II scanner soon.

Catty

I don't think the code P0202 causes plugged injector, could be electrical problem such as loose connector or female terminals or something. I dont think all fuel injectors need to replace cuz the Chrysler OBD-2 computers (PCM) are very sensitive to electrical, they can detect low or high voltage in fuel injectors or O2 sensors or any sensors or misfires or EGR or everything. I hope Catty's pc scan help him to diagnose the codes.

I am just a message. I saw at school and job. Everyone replaced whole the
fuel injections then don't worry about problem again in future if they want keep the cars more longer. Yes,the price is big problem.


Yes, I agreed with you about Chrysler. It's famous for electrical problem on transmission, PCM, etc. :-O

 

[purplecatty]

Catty, No concern about the EGR codes. The electronic EGR valve is control NOx, sometime it can be driveability problem. If you want to write down or print out the codes or freeze frame data before clear codes. Drive several miles as long as the MIL pop up. If same EGR code(s) then replace EGR valve. You can ignore it till state emission inspection to obtain a tag. Good Luck.
PS I ll look up the EGR codes in tech TSB to see if something come up then pm you ok. dst

I can print it out (software already have "print" option to print it out on printer. As for resetting MIL, It seem that it won't reset MIL. Should I just leave engine running or IGN on or turned off to reset it? There's no instruction manual on resetting. But on screen, I can click reset but it won't clear. I may show you on Youtube video soon.

Catty

 

[The Highlander]

I just reset the plug on Fuel Injector #4. The Fault code still tells me that it's still FJ circuity malfunction on Cylinder #4. I will have to try wiggle and jiggle the main ECU jack that all FJ connected to. It could be a bad connection. Lastly, I would test it with voltmeter to see if FJ #4 coil bad or not.

As for EGR, I would have to do hell job removing it. ONE bad part for me this month are FREEZING weather out. Its already 5 degree in Kansas City!!! My hands would go numb. I DO have heater but problem are that I'm in garage but it's not powerful enough to kill the cold. I also have heat lamp too and it may help a bit cuz the EGR is far back of the engine behind Manifold and is under the Dashboard cowl (it's basically firewall you know). Heat lamp wont be enough to shine on my cold hands. I would probably fuss over it.

The USB OBD II Scanner is basically one channel device while your OBD II scanner at your shop can do 3 channels same time (professional grade OBD II scanner). It's version 1.4 which are the newest and there are software that you can purchase and use this scanner to tweak and tune the engine. I have 4 softwares. Most are Demo version but only one is full version that you saw on pix.

It's cheap in Ebay. $24 is cheap and works the same way as more expensive hand held obd II scanner.

So it's worth a try. You can afford it tho.

Catty

That's what glove for.

CLC Black Engine Crew Gloves (Medium) at Blain's Farm & Fleet

I have one and I love it and I can feel anything easy.

You can use your DMM to check FI for ohm. Make sure no connection from PCM to FI.

 

[purplecatty]

I got some infro from my tech hot line (IATN), they says disconnect battery (negative cable) for 2 minutes (one poster say 10 minutes), to erase the learn EGR value in PCM. One poster say to check EGR valve for carbon buildup or stuck in a pintle valve, if found , try to clean or remove small carbon build up from the pintle valve, re install EGR valve then disconnect battery as above. I ll check Identifix at my work tmw. HTH dst

Yes that's exactly I read on Dodge forum. One said replace EGR then disconnect battery and re-connect before firing up engine. In that way it'll reset value in PCM.

As for carbon build up in EGR, one on dodge post mentioned that he just removed it and clean it with brake cleaner then work the valve ect inside of it then re-installed it and it works just fine. Hilly Billy method

The EGR valve on my Durango appear to have couple wire on top and tube connect from Exhaust and other end connect to Intake Manifold. It look simple. EGR is held by two 10mm bolts on stand and two 8mm bolts on side where Exhaust tube connect to. I will have to feel it and unbolt it. They said it's the worst location to work on.

Catty

 

[purplecatty]

That's what glove for.

CLC Black Engine Crew Gloves (Medium) at Blain's Farm & Fleet

I have one and I love it and I can feel anything easy.

You can use your DMM to check FI for ohm. Make sure no connection from PCM to FI.

Yup I could buy one at hardware store.

Yes, just mentioned above, will check on that. OFC I would have to unplug it in order to access to FJ contacts.

Would it hurt to plug test lamp to PCM jack and fire up engine to see if it flashes? Cuz FJ's coil have low OHM as well as lamp.

Catty