Free Pictures Of Self Defense Charts....
- Thread starter Heath
- Start date
Noooooooo I will never own a gun or I will keep a gun in my house with my two small children in it :Ohno:Heath said:That is okay ButterflyGirl, This thread was created in response to the U.S. Homeland Security situation also , for Deaf self defense situations too. This is more of a F.Y.I. situation. There is hand to hand combat fighting and how to use rifles and guns the proper way. I am sure the women at the gun club will be more than happy and welcome to help you get comfortable with shooting a gun and enjoy having guns as a hobby which can double up as self defense in a life saving emergency situation.
There are programs for women from the National Rifle Association.
http://www.nrahq.org/rtbav/
http://www.nrahq.org/women/wot.asp
I hope this helps you enjoy the owning of a rifle and a handgun for home self defense and for hunting to cook wild game food with some nice glass of wine beside a nicely built fireplace for the evening.
ButterflyGirl said:
This is what a gun safe is for. ( the 2nd door is to show how strong it is )
Only your fingerprints open the access and there is a set of keys for in case of emergency ( batteries go dead or electricity power goes off )
Please do not get one with a wood and glass gun safe.
The Ten Commandments of Firearm Safety
1. Watch that muzzle!
Keep it pointed in a safe direction at all times.
2. Treat every firearm with the respect due a loaded gun.
It might be, even if you think it isn’t. Treat the gun as if it were a loaded gun.
3. Be sure of the target and what is in front of it and beyond it.
Know the identifying features of the game you hunt. Make sure you have an adequate backstop—don’t shoot at a flat, hard surface or water.
4. Keep your finger off the trigger guard until ready to shoot.
This is the best way to prevent an accidental discharge.
5. Check your barrel and ammunition.
Make sure the barrel and action are clear of obstructions, and carry only the proper ammunition for your firearm. Keep your firearm clean and maintain regularly with the proper gun cleaning kit intended for the firearm.
6. Unload firearms when not in use.
Leave actions open; carry firearms in cases and unloaded to and from the shooting area.
7. Point a firearm only at something you intend to shoot.
Avoid all horseplay with a gun.
8. Don't run, jump, or climb with a loaded firearm.
Unload a firearm before you climb a fence or tree, or jump a ditch. Pull a firearm toward you by the butt, not the muzzle.
9. Store firearms and ammunition separately and safely.
Store each in secured locations beyond the reach of children and careless adults.
10. Avoid alcoholic beverages before or during shooting.
Also avoid mind- or behavior-altering medicines or drugs.
1. Watch that muzzle!
Keep it pointed in a safe direction at all times.
2. Treat every firearm with the respect due a loaded gun.
It might be, even if you think it isn’t. Treat the gun as if it were a loaded gun.
3. Be sure of the target and what is in front of it and beyond it.
Know the identifying features of the game you hunt. Make sure you have an adequate backstop—don’t shoot at a flat, hard surface or water.
4. Keep your finger off the trigger guard until ready to shoot.
This is the best way to prevent an accidental discharge.
5. Check your barrel and ammunition.
Make sure the barrel and action are clear of obstructions, and carry only the proper ammunition for your firearm. Keep your firearm clean and maintain regularly with the proper gun cleaning kit intended for the firearm.
6. Unload firearms when not in use.
Leave actions open; carry firearms in cases and unloaded to and from the shooting area.
7. Point a firearm only at something you intend to shoot.
Avoid all horseplay with a gun.
8. Don't run, jump, or climb with a loaded firearm.
Unload a firearm before you climb a fence or tree, or jump a ditch. Pull a firearm toward you by the butt, not the muzzle.
9. Store firearms and ammunition separately and safely.
Store each in secured locations beyond the reach of children and careless adults.
10. Avoid alcoholic beverages before or during shooting.
Also avoid mind- or behavior-altering medicines or drugs.
What Is Ammunition?
Modern ammunition varies depending on the type of firearm. Rifles and handguns use a cartridge containing a single projectile (bullet).Shotguns use a shotshell containing either a single slug or a large number of small projectiles (shot). However, the basic components of cartridges and shotshells are very similar.
cartridge:
Ammunition used in modern rifles and handguns; a case containing primer, gunpowder, and a bullet
shotshell:
Ammunition used in modern shotguns; a case containing primer, gunpowder, wad, and a slug or shot
Basic Components of Ammunition
The basic components are the case, primer, powder, and projectile(s). Shotshells have an additional component called wad.
Case: the container that holds all the other ammunition components together. It’s usually made of brass, steel, copper, paper or plastic.
Primer: an explosive chemical compound that ignites the gunpowder when struck by a firing pin. Primer may be placed either in the rim of the case (rimfire) or in the center of the base of the case (centerfire).
Gunpowder: a chemical mixture that burns very rapidly and converts to an expanding gas when ignited. Modern smokeless powder will burn slowly when ignited in the open (outside of the case). Black powder is less stable and can be explosive when ignited in the open.
Projectile: the object(s) expelled from the barrel. A bullet is a lead projectile fired through a rifle or handgun barrel. A slug is a lead projectile fired through a shotgun barrel. Shot is a group of lead, steel, tungsten or bismuth pellets fired through a shotgun.
Wad: a seal made of paper or plastic separating the powder from the slug or shot in a shotshell. The wad prevents gas from escaping through the shot and holds the shot together as it passes through the barrel.
Modern ammunition varies depending on the type of firearm. Rifles and handguns use a cartridge containing a single projectile (bullet).Shotguns use a shotshell containing either a single slug or a large number of small projectiles (shot). However, the basic components of cartridges and shotshells are very similar.
cartridge:
Ammunition used in modern rifles and handguns; a case containing primer, gunpowder, and a bullet
shotshell:
Ammunition used in modern shotguns; a case containing primer, gunpowder, wad, and a slug or shot
Basic Components of Ammunition
The basic components are the case, primer, powder, and projectile(s). Shotshells have an additional component called wad.
Case: the container that holds all the other ammunition components together. It’s usually made of brass, steel, copper, paper or plastic.
Primer: an explosive chemical compound that ignites the gunpowder when struck by a firing pin. Primer may be placed either in the rim of the case (rimfire) or in the center of the base of the case (centerfire).
Gunpowder: a chemical mixture that burns very rapidly and converts to an expanding gas when ignited. Modern smokeless powder will burn slowly when ignited in the open (outside of the case). Black powder is less stable and can be explosive when ignited in the open.
Projectile: the object(s) expelled from the barrel. A bullet is a lead projectile fired through a rifle or handgun barrel. A slug is a lead projectile fired through a shotgun barrel. Shot is a group of lead, steel, tungsten or bismuth pellets fired through a shotgun.
Wad: a seal made of paper or plastic separating the powder from the slug or shot in a shotshell. The wad prevents gas from escaping through the shot and holds the shot together as it passes through the barrel.
centerfire ammunition:
Centerfire ammunition is used for rifles, shotguns, and handguns. In this type of ammunition, the primer is located in the center of the casing base. Most centerfire ammunition is reloadable.
rimfire ammunition:
Rimfire ammunition has the primer contained in the rim of the ammunition casing. Rimfire ammunition is limited to low pressure loads. Rimfire cartridges are not reloadable.
Common types of rifle bullets are:
Pointed Soft Point: high velocity, accurate bullets with a flat travel path (trajectory); excellent mushrooming
Rounded Soft Point: popular for low velocity calibers; recommended for tubular magazines
Protected Tip: highly accurate with excellent expansion
Full Metal Jacket: maximum penetration without mushrooming; these bullets are illegal for big game hunting in most states
Common types of handgun bullets are:
Roundnose Lead: good penetration, little expansion
Full Metal Jacket: no expansion, high penetration
Semi-Wad Cutter: balances penetration and expansion
Hollowpoint: designed for high expansion on impact
Wad Cutter: flat-ended, used for target shooting; creates clean hole in paper
It’s critical to select the correct cartridge for your rifle or handgun. Carefully compare the data stamp on the barrel of the firearm against the description on the ammunition box and the stamp on each cartridge.
Bullets used in rifle and handgun cartridges come in various designs, sizes and weights. The bullet is made of lead, but sometimes has a copper jacket. Bullets used for hunting game may have soft or hollow points designed to expand (mushroom) upon impact. Bullets used for target shooting usually have solid points that make smaller holes.
Safety tip:
In tubular magazines, the bullet tip of one cartridge rests directly on the primer of the cartridge immediately ahead. For this reason, use only rounded or blunt tips in tubular magazines.
Shotshells
Shotgun shells (shotshells) each use a slug or shot as the projectile(s).
A slug is a lead projectile used for hunting big game with a shotgun.
Shot are multiple pellets fired through a shotgun barrel. Shot size is adaptable to the game being hunted. This type of projectile is typically used to hunt game birds and small game animals.
Gauge: Term used to designate bore diameter of a shotgun; gauge is the number of lead balls with diameters equal to the diameter of the bore that, when combined, weigh one pound
The shotshells must exactly match the gauge and shell length specified by the manufacturer. This information is usually found on the barrel of the shotgun. Shotguns may be chambered for 2-3/4 inch, 3 inch or 3-1/2 inch shells. This refers to the length of the shell after it has been fired. Read more about correctly matching ammunition to your firearm on Match Firearms and Ammunition—Correctly!
You must also choose the correct type and size of shot for the shotshell. In general, as the size of your target decreases, you should also decrease the diameter of the shot you use.
As pellet diameter decreases, more shot can be placed in a standard shotshell.
The smaller the shot “number,” the larger the pellet diameter.
Shotshell marked as “magnum” means the shell has more shot or more gunpowder than a regular shell. Magnum and regular shotshells are interchangeable if the correct gauge and shell length are used.
Steel shot pellets react differently than lead when shot. Steel weighs about two-thirds that of lead, but is much harder. Steel does not deform and is not as unstable in flight. It will produce a tighter pattern than lead shot. If using steel shot for hunting, choose a steel shot size one to two sizes larger than the lead shot you would select. See Shotgun Choke and Shot Pattern for more information about shot patterns and steel shot.
Non-Toxic Shot
Non-toxic shot is required throughout the U.S. for waterfowl hunting. Studies showed that many waterfowl died each year because of lead poisoning. Lead pellets from traditional shotshells were picked up and digested by waterfowl. The toxic effect spread to other birds, such as the bald eagle, who consumed the poisoned waterfowl. To reduce this problem, conservationists worked with shotshell manufacturers to produce effective alternatives to lead shot—steel, tungsten or bismuth shot.
Shotgun shells (shotshells) each use a slug or shot as the projectile(s).
A slug is a lead projectile used for hunting big game with a shotgun.
Shot are multiple pellets fired through a shotgun barrel. Shot size is adaptable to the game being hunted. This type of projectile is typically used to hunt game birds and small game animals.
Gauge: Term used to designate bore diameter of a shotgun; gauge is the number of lead balls with diameters equal to the diameter of the bore that, when combined, weigh one pound
The shotshells must exactly match the gauge and shell length specified by the manufacturer. This information is usually found on the barrel of the shotgun. Shotguns may be chambered for 2-3/4 inch, 3 inch or 3-1/2 inch shells. This refers to the length of the shell after it has been fired. Read more about correctly matching ammunition to your firearm on Match Firearms and Ammunition—Correctly!
You must also choose the correct type and size of shot for the shotshell. In general, as the size of your target decreases, you should also decrease the diameter of the shot you use.
As pellet diameter decreases, more shot can be placed in a standard shotshell.
The smaller the shot “number,” the larger the pellet diameter.
Shotshell marked as “magnum” means the shell has more shot or more gunpowder than a regular shell. Magnum and regular shotshells are interchangeable if the correct gauge and shell length are used.
Steel shot pellets react differently than lead when shot. Steel weighs about two-thirds that of lead, but is much harder. Steel does not deform and is not as unstable in flight. It will produce a tighter pattern than lead shot. If using steel shot for hunting, choose a steel shot size one to two sizes larger than the lead shot you would select. See Shotgun Choke and Shot Pattern for more information about shot patterns and steel shot.
Non-Toxic Shot
Non-toxic shot is required throughout the U.S. for waterfowl hunting. Studies showed that many waterfowl died each year because of lead poisoning. Lead pellets from traditional shotshells were picked up and digested by waterfowl. The toxic effect spread to other birds, such as the bald eagle, who consumed the poisoned waterfowl. To reduce this problem, conservationists worked with shotshell manufacturers to produce effective alternatives to lead shot—steel, tungsten or bismuth shot.
Match Firearms and Ammunition... CORRECTLY!
With so many kinds of firearms and types of ammunition, it’s not always easy to correctly match the proper ammunition to your firearm – but getting it right is critical. If you match the wrong ammunition to your gun, you can cause an explosion, injuring or possibly killing yourself and any bystanders.
To correctly match the proper ammunition to your rifle, shotgun or handgun:
Read the specific caliber or gauge designations on the side of the barrel. Match that designation exactly. For example, if it says “.270 Winchester,” you cannot use “.270 Weatherby.” Shotgun barrels will give the gauge and the length of the chamber (for example, “12-gauge for 2-3/4 inch shells” or “20-gauge magnum for 3-inch shells”).
Carefully read the information on the lid of the ammunition box. With shotgun ammunition, always check both the gauge and the shell length, and whether it’s a magnum load to ensure it matches the data on the barrel.
The final step is to match the information on the barrel to the information on the box before you shoot. If in doubt, ask a more experienced shooter or a qualified gunsmith. Some store clerks, although they sell ammunition, may not know the differences in sizes or the type of firearm you shoot.
load: The amount of gunpowder in the cartridge or shotshell together with the weight of the bullet or shot charge
Safety practices that will help you avoid using the wrong ammunition are:
Purchase only the correct ammunition for your firearm. Buy the exact caliber or gauge and length of ammunition for which your rifle, handgun or shotgun was designed. For example, shotshell must be the correct length for the shotgun. The data stamp on the barrel of the shotgun will identify which length of shells can be used.
Carry only the correct ammunition for the firearm you’re using. Never mix ammunition such as carrying a caliber or gauge your companion uses. A common mistake involves putting a 20-gauge shotshell into a 12-gauge shotgun. The smaller gauge shell will slide through the 12-gauge chamber and partly down the barrel, causing an obstruction. The shooter, especially when excited by the presence of game, may insert a 12-gauge shotgun shell behind the 20-gauge.
Safety tip:
Hangfires happen when the firing pin has struck the primer and there is a delay before it fires. This can occur for several reasons such as a faulty firing pin or spring, a defective primer or other cartridge related problem. A misfire is when the primer fails to ignite the powder.
Always treat a “misfire” or a “hangfire” as if the firearm is going to discharge at any second. Leave the action closed and retain your shooting position. Most importantly, maintain muzzle control in a safe direction at all times. Failure to follow these safe handling practices could result in a tragedy.
With so many kinds of firearms and types of ammunition, it’s not always easy to correctly match the proper ammunition to your firearm – but getting it right is critical. If you match the wrong ammunition to your gun, you can cause an explosion, injuring or possibly killing yourself and any bystanders.
To correctly match the proper ammunition to your rifle, shotgun or handgun:
Read the specific caliber or gauge designations on the side of the barrel. Match that designation exactly. For example, if it says “.270 Winchester,” you cannot use “.270 Weatherby.” Shotgun barrels will give the gauge and the length of the chamber (for example, “12-gauge for 2-3/4 inch shells” or “20-gauge magnum for 3-inch shells”).
Carefully read the information on the lid of the ammunition box. With shotgun ammunition, always check both the gauge and the shell length, and whether it’s a magnum load to ensure it matches the data on the barrel.
The final step is to match the information on the barrel to the information on the box before you shoot. If in doubt, ask a more experienced shooter or a qualified gunsmith. Some store clerks, although they sell ammunition, may not know the differences in sizes or the type of firearm you shoot.
load: The amount of gunpowder in the cartridge or shotshell together with the weight of the bullet or shot charge
Safety practices that will help you avoid using the wrong ammunition are:
Purchase only the correct ammunition for your firearm. Buy the exact caliber or gauge and length of ammunition for which your rifle, handgun or shotgun was designed. For example, shotshell must be the correct length for the shotgun. The data stamp on the barrel of the shotgun will identify which length of shells can be used.
Carry only the correct ammunition for the firearm you’re using. Never mix ammunition such as carrying a caliber or gauge your companion uses. A common mistake involves putting a 20-gauge shotshell into a 12-gauge shotgun. The smaller gauge shell will slide through the 12-gauge chamber and partly down the barrel, causing an obstruction. The shooter, especially when excited by the presence of game, may insert a 12-gauge shotgun shell behind the 20-gauge.
Safety tip:
Hangfires happen when the firing pin has struck the primer and there is a delay before it fires. This can occur for several reasons such as a faulty firing pin or spring, a defective primer or other cartridge related problem. A misfire is when the primer fails to ignite the powder.
Always treat a “misfire” or a “hangfire” as if the firearm is going to discharge at any second. Leave the action closed and retain your shooting position. Most importantly, maintain muzzle control in a safe direction at all times. Failure to follow these safe handling practices could result in a tragedy.
Gauge:
Term used to designate bore diameter of a shotgun; gauge is the number of lead balls with diameters equal to the diameter of the bore that, when combined, weigh one pound
Shot Sizes
Shot size is adaptable to the game being hunted. As pellet diameter decreases, more shot can be placed in a standard shotshell load. The smaller the shot number, the larger the shot size.
Term used to designate bore diameter of a shotgun; gauge is the number of lead balls with diameters equal to the diameter of the bore that, when combined, weigh one pound
Shot Sizes
Shot size is adaptable to the game being hunted. As pellet diameter decreases, more shot can be placed in a standard shotshell load. The smaller the shot number, the larger the shot size.
How a Firearm Works
The same physical process is used to fire shotshells from shotguns or cartridges from rifles or handguns. Pulling the trigger causes the firing pin to strike and explode the primer in the base of the cartridge or shotshell. The fire from the primer ignites the gunpowder, which burns rapidly converting to a gas. The gas rapidly expands and drives the projectile(s) through the barrel with great force.
How the rifle and handgun fire:
1. A cartridge is inserted into the chamber.
2. The action is closed and the firing pin is pushed back and held back under spring tension.
3. The trigger is pulled, releasing the firing pin, which moves forward with great force. The firing pin strikes the primer, causing it to explode.
4. The spark from the primer ignites the gunpowder. Gas converted from the burning powder rapidly expands in the cartridge.
5. The expanding gas forces the bullet out of the cartridge and down the barrel with great speed.
6. The rifling in the barrel (see Differences Between Rifles, Shotguns and Handguns) causes the bullet to spin as the bullet travels out of the barrel. The bullet’s speed and escaping gases produce a “bang.”
How the shotgun fires:
1. A shotshell is inserted into the chamber.
2. The action is closed and the firing pin is pushed back and held back under spring tension.
3. The trigger is pulled, causing the firing pin to strike the primer producing a spark.
4. The spark from the primer ignites the gunpowder. Gas converted from the burning powder expands in the shell.
5. Gas pushes the wad against the shot; the wad and shot are forced out of the plastic body of the shell.
6. The wad and shot leave the barrel. The escaping gases produce a “bang.”
7. Shot and wad separate. The shot cluster spreads and forms a pattern.
The same physical process is used to fire shotshells from shotguns or cartridges from rifles or handguns. Pulling the trigger causes the firing pin to strike and explode the primer in the base of the cartridge or shotshell. The fire from the primer ignites the gunpowder, which burns rapidly converting to a gas. The gas rapidly expands and drives the projectile(s) through the barrel with great force.
How the rifle and handgun fire:
1. A cartridge is inserted into the chamber.
2. The action is closed and the firing pin is pushed back and held back under spring tension.
3. The trigger is pulled, releasing the firing pin, which moves forward with great force. The firing pin strikes the primer, causing it to explode.
4. The spark from the primer ignites the gunpowder. Gas converted from the burning powder rapidly expands in the cartridge.
5. The expanding gas forces the bullet out of the cartridge and down the barrel with great speed.
6. The rifling in the barrel (see Differences Between Rifles, Shotguns and Handguns) causes the bullet to spin as the bullet travels out of the barrel. The bullet’s speed and escaping gases produce a “bang.”
How the shotgun fires:
1. A shotshell is inserted into the chamber.
2. The action is closed and the firing pin is pushed back and held back under spring tension.
3. The trigger is pulled, causing the firing pin to strike the primer producing a spark.
4. The spark from the primer ignites the gunpowder. Gas converted from the burning powder expands in the shell.
5. Gas pushes the wad against the shot; the wad and shot are forced out of the plastic body of the shell.
6. The wad and shot leave the barrel. The escaping gases produce a “bang.”
7. Shot and wad separate. The shot cluster spreads and forms a pattern.
Good Marksmanship and Accuracy
A fair amount of knowledge, skill, and experience is required to become a successful hunter. One of the essential skills is good marksmanship, which is accurately and consistently hitting the target where planned. When hunting, accuracy is critical for a clean kill.
Good marksmanship is built on three fundamentals:
Proper sight adjustment or patterning
Proper shooting technique
Practice
Know Your Accuracy Limits
Ethical hunters know their personal accuracy and limit their shots accordingly.
An 8-inch paper plate is the standard target for establishing deer hunting shooting accuracy. An 8-inch target is about the same size as the vital area of a deer. You need to be able to hit the paper plate consistently at the same distance and from the same shooting position you will be using when hunting. The fact that you can hit an 8-inch target at 100 yards from a bench rest does not mean you will be able do the same from a standing or kneeling position.
Before hunting, practice until you are confident you can hit the required target at the distances and shooting positions you expect to use in the field. When hunting, limit your shots to your most accurate range.
Safety tip:
Colorblind hunters must use extra caution. They may have trouble identifying game and recognizing hunter fluorescent orange.
Rifle Shooting: Sight Alignment
Sight alignment is the process of lining up rear and front sights. The sight picture is the image you see when the sights are correctly aligned with the target. To ensure that the bullet will travel to the target in your sight, it's necessary to sight-in your rifle. But before you can do that, you need to determine your dominant or "master" eye.
Sight Alignment
With an open sight, you line up the target with the blade or bead of the front sight within the notch of the rear sight.
With an aperture sight, you line up the target with the front sight within the rear peephole.
With a telescopic sight with a crosshair reticle, you line up the target with the crosshairs of the sight.
With a telescopic sight with a dot reticle, you line up the target with the dot of the sight. The dot must be centered.
Remember....
Good vision is the foundation for good shooting and hunting safety. Have your eyes examined on a regular basis.
Sight alignment is the process of lining up rear and front sights. The sight picture is the image you see when the sights are correctly aligned with the target. To ensure that the bullet will travel to the target in your sight, it's necessary to sight-in your rifle. But before you can do that, you need to determine your dominant or "master" eye.
Sight Alignment
With an open sight, you line up the target with the blade or bead of the front sight within the notch of the rear sight.
With an aperture sight, you line up the target with the front sight within the rear peephole.
With a telescopic sight with a crosshair reticle, you line up the target with the crosshairs of the sight.
With a telescopic sight with a dot reticle, you line up the target with the dot of the sight. The dot must be centered.
Remember....
Good vision is the foundation for good shooting and hunting safety. Have your eyes examined on a regular basis.
Dominant or Master Eye
Just as you have a dominant hand, you also have a dominant eye. You need to aim with the dominant—or master—eye for the most accurate shooting. Usually your dominant eye is the same as your dominant hand, but not always.
To determine your dominant eye:
1. Form a triangular opening with your thumbs and forefingers.
2. Stretch your arms out in front of you.
3. Focus on a distant object while looking through the triangular opening.
4. Bring your hands slowly to your face, keeping sight of the object through the opening; the opening will naturally come to your dominant eye.
If you're not sure, close one eye at a time. The weak eye will see the back of your hand; the strong one will be focused on the object in the triangle.
Just as you have a dominant hand, you also have a dominant eye. You need to aim with the dominant—or master—eye for the most accurate shooting. Usually your dominant eye is the same as your dominant hand, but not always.
To determine your dominant eye:
1. Form a triangular opening with your thumbs and forefingers.
2. Stretch your arms out in front of you.
3. Focus on a distant object while looking through the triangular opening.
4. Bring your hands slowly to your face, keeping sight of the object through the opening; the opening will naturally come to your dominant eye.
If you're not sure, close one eye at a time. The weak eye will see the back of your hand; the strong one will be focused on the object in the triangle.
Sighting-In a Rifle
Rifle bullets don't travel in a straight line. They travel in an arc, formed by the pull of gravity. "Sighting-in" is a process of adjusting the sights to hit a target at a specific range. Deer hunters, for example, often sight-in their rifles to hit the bull's-eye at 100 yards.
All rifles should be sighted-in before every hunt using the ammunition you plan to use, especially rifles with peep or telescopic sights. Guns you sighted-in prior to your last outing could have been knocked out of alignment by a single jolt. That misalignment could mean the difference between a successful hunt and a disappointing experience.
Other than ensuring accurate shots, sighting-in a rifle has other advantages:
Forces you to practice.
Helps determine problems with your shooting technique.
Builds confidence in your shooting ability.
Remember ....
You must sight-in your rifle with the ammunition you plan to use. Be sure you sight-in and practice shooting your rifle before you go hunting.
Optional Sighting-In Techniques
Use bore or collimator sighting-in initially to get on the paper target. However, these techniques alone are not sufficient to sight-in a rifle. You must make final adjustments by shooting the rifle with the same ammunition you plan to use in the field.
Bore sighting-in with bolt-action rifles:
Remove the bolt, brace the firearm on sandbags and look directly through the bore. Correct the rifle's position until you see the bull's-eye in the center of the bore. Adjust the sights to give you a good sight picture.
Collimator sighting-in for rifles without bolt actions:
A collimator slips into the muzzle end of the barrel and allows you to adjust sights much like bore sighting-in.
Rifle bullets don't travel in a straight line. They travel in an arc, formed by the pull of gravity. "Sighting-in" is a process of adjusting the sights to hit a target at a specific range. Deer hunters, for example, often sight-in their rifles to hit the bull's-eye at 100 yards.
All rifles should be sighted-in before every hunt using the ammunition you plan to use, especially rifles with peep or telescopic sights. Guns you sighted-in prior to your last outing could have been knocked out of alignment by a single jolt. That misalignment could mean the difference between a successful hunt and a disappointing experience.
Other than ensuring accurate shots, sighting-in a rifle has other advantages:
Forces you to practice.
Helps determine problems with your shooting technique.
Builds confidence in your shooting ability.
Remember ....
You must sight-in your rifle with the ammunition you plan to use. Be sure you sight-in and practice shooting your rifle before you go hunting.
Optional Sighting-In Techniques
Use bore or collimator sighting-in initially to get on the paper target. However, these techniques alone are not sufficient to sight-in a rifle. You must make final adjustments by shooting the rifle with the same ammunition you plan to use in the field.
Bore sighting-in with bolt-action rifles:
Remove the bolt, brace the firearm on sandbags and look directly through the bore. Correct the rifle's position until you see the bull's-eye in the center of the bore. Adjust the sights to give you a good sight picture.
Collimator sighting-in for rifles without bolt actions:
A collimator slips into the muzzle end of the barrel and allows you to adjust sights much like bore sighting-in.
Sighting-In Steps
Fire your rifle from a solid bench rest with the forearm resting on a pad or a sandbag. Don't rest the gun on its barrel—it will shoot higher than normal. Ideally, use an adjustable shooting tripod with sandbags. A spotting scope is also useful.
Sight-in instructions are printed on some targets available from retail outlets or manufacturers. The sighting-in process for most centerfire rifles begins at 25 yards, and then should be repeated at 100 yards. The basic steps involve firing at least three shots carefully and consistently at a target. If the bullets form a relatively small group of holes on the target, but not where you were aiming, the sights will have to be adjusted.
When adjusting peep or telescopic sights, the rear sights or dials are adjusted by a certain number of minutes-of-angle or "clicks" in a certain direction. Read the sight's instruction manual to see how much each click changes the sight at 100 yards.
The rear sight is moved in the same direction you want your shot to move on the target. Moving shots from side to side is "adjusting for windage." Moving shots up or down is "adjusting for elevation."
Specific instructions about trajectory and what fractions or inches you should be above the bull's-eye at 25, 50 or 100 yards are usually included on sight-in targets. You might also consult a ballistic chart or get help from an experienced shooter.
minutes-of-angle:
The standard measurement unit of shooting accuracy; one minute of angle (MOA) is 1/60 of one degree, or approximately one inch at 100 yards
Fire your rifle from a solid bench rest with the forearm resting on a pad or a sandbag. Don't rest the gun on its barrel—it will shoot higher than normal. Ideally, use an adjustable shooting tripod with sandbags. A spotting scope is also useful.
Sight-in instructions are printed on some targets available from retail outlets or manufacturers. The sighting-in process for most centerfire rifles begins at 25 yards, and then should be repeated at 100 yards. The basic steps involve firing at least three shots carefully and consistently at a target. If the bullets form a relatively small group of holes on the target, but not where you were aiming, the sights will have to be adjusted.
When adjusting peep or telescopic sights, the rear sights or dials are adjusted by a certain number of minutes-of-angle or "clicks" in a certain direction. Read the sight's instruction manual to see how much each click changes the sight at 100 yards.
The rear sight is moved in the same direction you want your shot to move on the target. Moving shots from side to side is "adjusting for windage." Moving shots up or down is "adjusting for elevation."
Specific instructions about trajectory and what fractions or inches you should be above the bull's-eye at 25, 50 or 100 yards are usually included on sight-in targets. You might also consult a ballistic chart or get help from an experienced shooter.
minutes-of-angle:
The standard measurement unit of shooting accuracy; one minute of angle (MOA) is 1/60 of one degree, or approximately one inch at 100 yards
Rifle Firing Techniques
Using correct firing techniques will help you steady the rifle for the most accurate shooting. Bear in mind that these are only the basics. Further study will help you understand other factors that can affect your accuracy, such as wind, heat, and parallax.
Shooting From a Rest:
When shooting in the field, the safest and most accurate shots are taken from a rest—a log, rock, or stump. To prevent the rifle from bouncing when fired from a hard surface, put some padding, such as a hat or a coat, under the rifle, or use your hand.
Breathing:
Your breathing can move the rifle just enough to throw off your shot.
When you're ready to shoot, draw a deep breath and exhale about half of it.
Then hold your breath as you squeeze the trigger.
Bear in mind that if you hold your breath too long your heart beats faster, which increases your pulse and causes the rifle to move. If you notice this happening, take another breath and start over.
At times the excitement of spotting game will make it more difficult to control your breathing. Try to relax and follow the correct procedure.
Trigger Squeeze:
Jerking the trigger or abruptly clenching the trigger hand can move the gun enough to cause a miss. To pull the trigger without jarring the gun, simply apply slow, steady pressure until the gun fires. Practice will make holding your breath and proper trigger squeeze habitual.
Follow Through:
After the bullet fires, it's important to continue the squeeze or follow through. That prevents you from jerking the gun before the bullet has left the barrel.
parallax:
Optical bending of telescopic crosshairs in relation to the target
Using correct firing techniques will help you steady the rifle for the most accurate shooting. Bear in mind that these are only the basics. Further study will help you understand other factors that can affect your accuracy, such as wind, heat, and parallax.
Shooting From a Rest:
When shooting in the field, the safest and most accurate shots are taken from a rest—a log, rock, or stump. To prevent the rifle from bouncing when fired from a hard surface, put some padding, such as a hat or a coat, under the rifle, or use your hand.
Breathing:
Your breathing can move the rifle just enough to throw off your shot.
When you're ready to shoot, draw a deep breath and exhale about half of it.
Then hold your breath as you squeeze the trigger.
Bear in mind that if you hold your breath too long your heart beats faster, which increases your pulse and causes the rifle to move. If you notice this happening, take another breath and start over.
At times the excitement of spotting game will make it more difficult to control your breathing. Try to relax and follow the correct procedure.
Trigger Squeeze:
Jerking the trigger or abruptly clenching the trigger hand can move the gun enough to cause a miss. To pull the trigger without jarring the gun, simply apply slow, steady pressure until the gun fires. Practice will make holding your breath and proper trigger squeeze habitual.
Follow Through:
After the bullet fires, it's important to continue the squeeze or follow through. That prevents you from jerking the gun before the bullet has left the barrel.
parallax:
Optical bending of telescopic crosshairs in relation to the target
Shooting Positions
There are four standard rifle positions: prone, standing, sitting, and kneeling.
Prone Position
The prone position is the steadiest of the four positions. Because it's easiest to hold, it's the best position for mastering the fundamentals of shooting—breath control, aiming, trigger squeeze and follow through.
Standing Position
With neither arm supported, this is the most difficult position for firing an accurate shot. Rather than trying to hold the barrel steady, which is impossible, try to keep movement of the barrel to as small an area as possible. Smooth, natural motion will produce the best shot.
Sitting Position
Both arms are supported by your legs. Next to the prone position, this is the steadiest position.
Kneeling Position
With only one arm braced, the kneeling position is less steady than the prone or sitting positions.
There are four standard rifle positions: prone, standing, sitting, and kneeling.
Prone Position
The prone position is the steadiest of the four positions. Because it's easiest to hold, it's the best position for mastering the fundamentals of shooting—breath control, aiming, trigger squeeze and follow through.
Standing Position
With neither arm supported, this is the most difficult position for firing an accurate shot. Rather than trying to hold the barrel steady, which is impossible, try to keep movement of the barrel to as small an area as possible. Smooth, natural motion will produce the best shot.
Sitting Position
Both arms are supported by your legs. Next to the prone position, this is the steadiest position.
Kneeling Position
With only one arm braced, the kneeling position is less steady than the prone or sitting positions.