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sequoias said:
2000 Honda Civic EX coupe. The EPA is similar to what I acheive right now.
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I'm try to remember that I ride in your car. It's narrow small, correct? That mean, it would be much lighter than mine. However, you have been drive on hill down and up alot. Isn't it?
 
sequoias said:
Pretty good savings. ;)
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Yep, it will go up as high as to 36 mpg since weather is starting to warm up. I noticed during the warm weather, the RPM dropper a lot lower than what I am used to. I'm hoping to save as much as up to 2,500 in one year. My current goal is to achieve 36 MPG which is almost 90% over EPA. I am currently around 47%-48% over EPA, averaging 28 MPG.
 
PowerON said:
I'm try to remember that I ride in your car. It's narrow small, correct? That mean, it would be much lighter than mine. However, you have been drive on hill down and up alot. Isn't it?
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Not that narrow...but smaller than your car. It's about 2,500 pounds and your car is around 2,900 lbs or so, I think. Yes, the hills kill the mpg. I think I will get better mpg when moving to other state because it's mostly flat there.
 
sequoias said:
Not that narrow...but smaller than your car. It's about 2,500 pounds and your car is around 2,900 lbs or so, I think. Yes, the hills kill the mpg. I think I will get better mpg when moving to other state because it's mostly flat there.
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I am also in hilly Territory, the secret is to achieve DWL (Drive With Load). When I approach the uphill, I "buffer" my speed up to 5-10 mph over speed limit then HOLD the throttle there (keeping feet on gas pedal, parked on the side wall to keep it in its place). Stay on that speed until you go up the hill, the speed and RPM WILL go down dramatically i.e. If I buffer up to 60 mph, it will go down to 50 mph. Once when you go over the hill, stay on the DWL (holding throttle) until you return back to your speed (that is if you are going downhill) and resume back to normal operation.

With DWL I achieved from 23 MPG to 28 from doing that.
 
LinuxGold said:
I am also in hilly Territory, the secret is to achieve DWL (Drive With Load). When I approach the uphill, I "buffer" my speed up to 5-10 mph over speed limit then HOLD the throttle there (keeping feet on gas pedal, parked on the side wall to keep it in its place). Stay on that speed until you go up the hill, the speed and RPM WILL go down dramatically i.e. If I buffer up to 60 mph, it will go down to 50 mph. Once when you go over the hill, stay on the DWL (holding throttle) until you return back to your speed (that is if you are going downhill) and resume back to normal operation.

With DWL I achieved from 23 MPG to 28 from doing that.
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Ahh I see...interesting. That could be a problem for my car with a full load on long steep mountain passes.
 
sequoias said:
Not that narrow...but smaller than your car. It's about 2,500 pounds and your car is around 2,900 lbs or so, I think. Yes, the hills kill the mpg. I think I will get better mpg when moving to other state because it's mostly flat there.
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Thought so, after I look up on specs model of size on Civic that your is the last subcompact car model and mine is now compact which appear start design in 2001. Fancy... No wonder when I notice that mpg was bit down than in past.
 
PowerON said:
Thought so, after I look up on specs model of size on Civic that your is the last subcompact car model and mine is now compact which appear start design in 2001. Fancy... No wonder when I notice that mpg was bit down than in past.
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Yes, it's pretty tiny car! My bad, it's almost 2,300 lbs not 2,500 lbs. I just remembered now. 2,500 lbs is a bit too heavy for a car like that. Yeah, they add more safety bullshit to the car and put more powerful engines and that adds weight which causes a bit less EPA mpg.
 
LinuxGold said:
I am also in hilly Territory, the secret is to achieve DWL (Drive With Load). When I approach the uphill, I "buffer" my speed up to 5-10 mph over speed limit then HOLD the throttle there (keeping feet on gas pedal, parked on the side wall to keep it in its place). Stay on that speed until you go up the hill, the speed and RPM WILL go down dramatically i.e. If I buffer up to 60 mph, it will go down to 50 mph. Once when you go over the hill, stay on the DWL (holding throttle) until you return back to your speed (that is if you are going downhill) and resume back to normal operation.

With DWL I achieved from 23 MPG to 28 from doing that.
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Indeed, I have done it pretty much since. It helps... Funny, nobody told me and I had in head to figure that ought do the trick.
 
sequoias said:
Ahh I see...interesting. That could be a problem for my car with a full load on long steep mountain passes.
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Unload all unnecessary load off your car, that will help tremendously as well, there is nothing in my car except for things that I use at work (laptop, lunch bag) everyday.

Download the mileage log in pdf and keep records of your tanks, drive normally and make logs. Then after you refill and record your ORIGINAL mpg, then try DWL uphills and see how much difference it makes.

Let us know how you fared. :)
 
LinuxGold said:
Unload all unnecessary load off your car, that will help tremendously as well, there is nothing in my car except for things that I use at work (laptop, lunch bag) everyday.

Download the mileage log in pdf and keep records of your tanks, drive normally and make logs. Then after you refill and record your ORIGINAL mpg, then try DWL uphills and see how much difference it makes.

Let us know how you fared. :)
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I can't do that, I'm moving remember? LOL You're dealing with a 4 or 5 mile going straight up on a incline to a pass like in Idaho and Montana which I'm going to deal with. ;) I guess I would have to speed up to 90 mph and buffer. :lol: I'm just kidding, I don't think it will go up hill that fast without buffering.
 
LinuxGold said:
I am also in hilly Territory, the secret is to achieve DWL (Drive With Load). When I approach the uphill, I "buffer" my speed up to 5-10 mph over speed limit then HOLD the throttle there (keeping feet on gas pedal, parked on the side wall to keep it in its place). Stay on that speed until you go up the hill, the speed and RPM WILL go down dramatically i.e. If I buffer up to 60 mph, it will go down to 50 mph. Once when you go over the hill, stay on the DWL (holding throttle) until you return back to your speed (that is if you are going downhill) and resume back to normal operation.

With DWL I achieved from 23 MPG to 28 from doing that.
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Good luck with uphill curve.

The Direct-shift gearbox (DSG) is better than automatic transmission for uphill and mpg. The automatic transmission is work so hard and overheat so easy than manual transmission at the uphill The manual transmission is very hard to drive smooth at uphill with heavy traffic. So the DSG is win. Our VW (170hp and 30mpg) have DSG 6 speeds. The 6-speed DSG weighs 30 lbs less than the 4-speed automatic

VW, Mitsubishi, Nissan, Audi, and other already have DSG since. Now Ford plan to add DSG on all Focus by 2011

Ford officially announces dual clutch PowerShift gearbox for 2010 — Autoblog

The automatic transmission is junk for weight, fuel efficient, lag, snow, uphill, etc.
 
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The Highlander said:
Good luck with uphill curve.

The Direct-shift gearbox (DSG) is better than automatic transmission for uphill and mpg. The automatic transmission is work so hard and overheat so easy than manual transmission at the uphill The manual transmission is very hard to drive smooth at uphill with heavy traffic. So the DSG is win. Our VW (170hp and 30mpg) have DSG 6 speeds. The 6-speed DSG weighs 30 lbs less than the 4-speed automatic

VW, Mitsubishi, Nissan, Audi, and other already have DSG since. Now Ford plan to add DSG on all Focus by 2011

Ford officially announces dual clutch PowerShift gearbox for 2010 — Autoblog

The automatic transmission is junk for weight, fuel efficient, lag, snow, uphill, etc.
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You mean automatic trannys are junk? If without ETC, I would be suffer with automatic's shifting problematic. Hey, have you drive a 2004 BMW M3 with a
semi automatic tranny before? Try on it and play with shifting peddlers on the steering wheel, you will see why the automatic tranny is talking about.
Happens to me that I couldnt move a BMW M3 in reverse (semi auto tranny)
I cant figure out why ( saw "R" blinking on the dash when joystick shift on the console, was in reverse position), I found out the hood was leave open cuz I forget to close it after smog inspection, I closed a hood then car moved fine in reverse, though.... Even BMW M3 will not start without depress brake pedal or leave joyshift in drive or reverse position or leave door open.
 
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