brakes

just saw this thread. Its kinda hard to daignose over the internet. I have a few questions.
1. what type of pads do u have? semi metallic or ceramics? I buy nothing but ceramics. it stops better, stops cooler and I know I can stop hard if needed alot.(wifey does :roll:) I know it makes a dusty mess on rims, but I think its a good trade off for better pads.
2. when it makes noise at low speed, have you tried checking to see if it louder when in a turn? if so then bearings.
3. do you have "streaks bumps" on your rotors ? sometimes with "60%" pad left will be 20% or less with the streaks humps wearing down to the rotors.\
4. Did you check the low pad indicator squealors on both sides? sometimes bending them back a bit will eliminate the noise but will needs to be replaced ASAP. even tho it was 60 % few months ago can wear down fast!! If you dont drive it for a week during rainy, or snowy/salt season then it will build up rust on rotors and act like sandpaper to wear out pads faster.

I have a strong feeling that Sequoias's car might have a minor problem with pads (maybe aftermarket pads or no shims on the pads?), warped/crooked rotors or egg shaped drums (rear brakes).
Every new brake pads (many different brand names) installed by DIYers or professional mechanics, are always having the brake noise problems. Many mechanics says normal.
I like rusted rotor surfaces when the car is sitting for months during rainy weather, it may help to sanding the roughness pads and stop noises and better than before. But the noises will come back after several driving miles. I dont like snow salt, bad for the rotors/drums get rust fast.
 
I just read the technician forum (pro mechanics), one technician questioned about the brake pad slaps in a 2006 Mercedes Benz (MBZ) CLS55 AMG.... he has been servicing his long time customer's cars. The customer told him that the MBZ dealer quoted him $2,600 for 2 new front brake rotors and pads (include labors). He asked him what opinion on the front brake job. He recommended the pad slaps instead of new 2 front rotors cuz the rotors are slight wear and allow new pads to be installed without take the rotors out for re machine. He did trick job without special MBZ factory scan tool to disable the computer system during brake works. Dont try it yourself...
The mechanic charged a customer for pad slaps job is $99 labor (doesnt mention $$$ pads). $99? No, I want $300 labor for front brake period.
 
I just read the technician forum (pro mechanics), one technician questioned about the brake pad slaps in a 2006 Mercedes Benz (MBZ) CLS55 AMG.... he has been servicing his long time customer's cars. The customer told him that the MBZ dealer quoted him $2,600 for 2 new front brake rotors and pads (include labors). He asked him what opinion on the front brake job. He recommended the pad slaps instead of new 2 front rotors cuz the rotors are slight wear and allow new pads to be installed without take the rotors out for re machine. He did trick job without special MBZ factory scan tool to disable the computer system during brake works. Dont try it yourself...
The mechanic charged a customer for pad slaps job is $99 labor (doesnt mention $$$ pads). $99? No, I want $300 labor for front brake period.

$300? Most shops around here and Chicago are around $60-$100 labor for front brakes even bolt rusted. Most southwest are almost no rusts due rare snow and rain. Why $300? Brake jobs only take an hour or less.
 
Yeah, I have a feeling it's possible the defective brake pads. I still haven't checked it yet. I'm waiting until the weather is warmer and have time to park the car and have a look at it.
 
Let me repeat this in a clear manner.

-the loud noise only happens when braking at a lower speed....not from high speed...it starts to make that noise when it reach a lower speed or something.
-I don't know if the wheel bearings makes noise while cruising or accelerating.
-The steering feels tight, not loose. If it was...it would not go straight on the highway or pull left or right...also show excessive and uneven tire wear.
-The tires were installed last year November.
-Last note...stupid money!

I can feel it....which is what I meant, lol. The shop could not find anything wrong with the brakes when I told them that it was making noises, odd. I guess they overlooked on the rotors, I don't really know. The rotors are the same since brand new, so probably old and worn rotors, I guess? I already replaced the brake pads last year, it was fine until it started making the annoying vibration/noise sometime few months ago, it's driving me up the wall so I decided to ask you guys on Alldeaf.

You can "feel" it? Does it always squeal at low speed even after long driving? If no - then it sounds like a normal brake squealing. All brakes squeal anyway to a certain degree. So does my motorcycle. Brakes need to warm up, you know.
 
$300? Most shops around here and Chicago are around $60-$100 labor for front brakes even bolt rusted. Most southwest are almost no rusts due rare snow and rain. Why $300? Brake jobs only take an hour or less.

Why $300? Because of high end cars like MBZs, BMWs or Porsches that requires special scan tool to disable the computer prior to the brake works that consume
labor time. Like spend 10 minutes in a driver seat as you scan the computers and finish brake works then go back to a driver seat to reset the computer in another 10 minutes. Plus road test time. Sounds right to me. Do you like $99 labor for the high end car's front brake job? $99 is the shop pay you $10 a hour labor time? Sounds good money to you? Me? No thanks.
 
I feel MBZ dealer charge a customer of a 2006 CLS55 AMG.....

2 front brake rotors................ $1K ($1,000) dollars
1 set of front brake pads..........$400 dollars
Labor....................................$1,200 dollars.
$2,600 for front brake only. Wow if I employ at MBZ dealer, earn about 40 % commission of $1,200, pocket $480 from a single brake work. Lot money. I love it.
 
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Jiro said:
Let me repeat this in a clear manner.

-the loud noise only happens when braking at a lower speed....not from high speed...it starts to make that noise when it reach a lower speed or something.
-I don't know if the wheel bearings makes noise while cruising or accelerating.
-The steering feels tight, not loose. If it was...it would not go straight on the highway or pull left or right...also show excessive and uneven tire wear.
-The tires were installed last year November.
-Last note...stupid money!

I can feel it....which is what I meant, lol. The shop could not find anything wrong with the brakes when I told them that it was making noises, odd. I guess they overlooked on the rotors, I don't really know. The rotors are the same since brand new, so probably old and worn rotors, I guess? I already replaced the brake pads last year, it was fine until it started making the annoying vibration/noise sometime few months ago, it's driving me up the wall so I decided to ask you guys on Alldeaf.

You can "feel" it? Does it always squeal at low speed even after long driving? If no - then it sounds like a normal brake squealing. All brakes squeal anyway to a certain degree. So does my motorcycle. Brakes need to warm up, you know.

Well come and find ir out yourself lol Its NOT normal like I said earlier.
 
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deafsmogtech said:
I feel MBZ dealer charge a customer of a 2006 CLS55 AMG.....

2 front brake rotors................ $1K ($1,000) dollars
1 set of front brake pads..........$400 dollars
Labor....................................$1,200 dollars.
$2,600 for front brake only. Wow if I employ at MBZ dealer, earn about 40 % commission of $1,200, pocket $480 from a single brake work. Lot money. I love it.

Yes thats Mercedes. I heard that an oil change for mercedes will cost abut 250 bucks at the dealer. Dont be surprised that it will cost you 500 for a Ferrari.
 
You can "feel" it? Does it always squeal at low speed even after long driving? If no - then it sounds like a normal brake squealing. All brakes squeal anyway to a certain degree. So does my motorcycle. Brakes need to warm up, you know.
Um, no, not all brakes squeal.
 
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Yes thats Mercedes. I heard that an oil change for mercedes will cost abut 250 bucks at the dealer. Dont be surprised that it will cost you 500 for a Ferrari.
Yeah, well if you own a Ferrari, you can't complain about $500 oil changes. :cool2:
 
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Glenn said:
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Yes thats Mercedes. I heard that an oil change for mercedes will cost abut 250 bucks at the dealer. Dont be surprised that it will cost you 500 for a Ferrari.
Yeah, well if you own a Ferrari, you can't complain about $500 oil changes. :cool2:

Yeah fr a rich folk, they wont complain.
 
Why $300? Because of high end cars like MBZs, BMWs or Porsches that requires special scan tool to disable the computer prior to the brake works that consume
labor time. Like spend 10 minutes in a driver seat as you scan the computers and finish brake works then go back to a driver seat to reset the computer in another 10 minutes. Plus road test time. Sounds right to me. Do you like $99 labor for the high end car's front brake job? $99 is the shop pay you $10 a hour labor time? Sounds good money to you? Me? No thanks.

Well I got under $9 for that. :ugh:

That's mean $200 more for extra 20 min? :giggle:

So $300 = $30 a hour for you? :shock:

20 minutes? I can do under 5 minutes for scan and reset. So that's mean special scan tool is awful slow.
 
Well I got under $9 for that. :ugh:

That's mean $200 more for extra 20 min? :giggle:

So $300 = $30 a hour for you? :shock:

20 minutes? I can do under 5 minutes for scan and reset. So that's mean special scan tool is awful slow.
It's not just labor time, it's shop time. I never met a mechanic that charges labor and parts only.
 
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Yes thats Mercedes. I heard that an oil change for mercedes will cost abut 250 bucks at the dealer. Dont be surprised that it will cost you 500 for a Ferrari.

Euro vehicles are almost same as American vehicles and Japanese vehicles. Why?

Most American vehicles cost $30 for 3,000 miles.
Most VW vehicles cost $80 for 10,000 miles.
Most BMW vehicles $200~ for 20,000 miles.
 
It's not just labor time, it's shop time. I never met a mechanic that charges labor and parts only.

Shop time is behind the parts and labor charge. The RO (repair order) invoice papers always show parts and labors. I still see the mechanic make the RO invoice papers to charge a customer for the repairs as part of job duty when the manager is not present in the shop.
 
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