ELECTRIC SHAVERS
Unlike blades, electric shavers work by shearing the whiskers--the hair enters the perforated metal heads or foils of the shaver and is cut by the moving blades inside. Most electric shavers are dry shavers (i.e. they don't require shaving gel or water), though there are some wet/dry electric models on the market. This guide covers the more common dry shaver models; if you do choose a wet/dry model, follow the specific instructions of your model for use and care.
Benefits of dry electric shaving are ease of use and less chance of cuts and scrapes. It is debatable as to whether wet blade shaving or electric shaving is faster, but some men find that the electric shaver is less messy and more convenient.
First-time electric shaver users
If you are new to shaving, or have been using a blade razor and are switching to electric, give your face 2-3 weeks to adjust to electric shaving. Also, don't fluctuate back and forth between blade shaving and electric shaving during that period if you can help it. Though your first few shaves may be less than perfect, many men report that once their face has gotten "used to" the electric shaver, it works very well for them.
During your trial and error process of finding the right shaver, keep in mind that many brands of electric shavers have money back guarantees. Be sure to check the guarantee for the shaver you purchase and plan accordingly.
Types of Dry Electric Shavers
There are two major types of electric shavers: foil shavers and rotary shavers. Personal preference and trial and error will determine which type is better for you.
Foil shavers use an oscillating (back and forth) motion to cut hairs through a foil (also know as a screen). The blades in a foil shaver are positioned in line; they may contain 1-4 rows of blades. Single foil shavers have one cutter covered by one foil. These are ideal for men who are just starting to shave or those with slow beard growth. Double foil shavers have two cutters covered by two foils; triple foil shavers have three cutters covered by three foils, etc.
Rotary shavers use a cutting system based upon circular blades that rotate under a slotted head or heads. They may contain 1-3 rotating blades and heads, and the heads may be designed to swivel with the contours of your face.
ELECTRIC SHAVING METHODS
Preparation
Dry electric shavers require the opposite of what you want when preparing for a traditional wet shave with a blade. With an electric shaver, you want the hairs to be dry and stiff before you begin, so they are easier to shear once they've gotten inside the heads of the shaver. Because of this, you should not start by washing your face or thoroughly wetting the beard with water.
Instead, you may want to prep with a pre-shave lotion designed for electric shavers (such as "Lectric shave"). Such products, often alcohol-based, dry up the oils and moisture on your skin and make the whiskers stand straight up.
General Rules
When using an electric shaver you can shave either against the grain of your whiskers or with the grain (see the "Wet Shaving" section for information on finding the grain of your beard growth). In the case of a rotary shaver, make small circular motions with the shaver head on your face. Be sure to use gentle pressure-- do not move rapidly, and do not press down hard. Let the shaver do the work for you. If you have to press down hard, your shaver may be dirty, and/or your blades may be too dull and need to be replaced
Hints for Sensitive Skin
If you have sensitive skin, you may wish to shave the more sensitive areas of your face and neck first, and finish with the less sensitive areas. This is because some electric shavers generate heat over the course of your shave, and heat can cause irritation. Shave sensitive areas while the shaver is still cool.
Finishing Up
When you are finished, if there is any pre-shave lotion remaining, rinse your face with warm water, then cool water. Pat your face dry (don't rub) and apply an after-shave balm or moisturizer to smooth the skin. As with wet shaving, avoid alcohol-based after-shaves, and instead look for products designed to soothe and moisturize your skin without clogging your pores.
ELECTRIC SHAVER MAINTENANCE
Don't throw away the manual!
Take the time to read your shaver manual regarding its proper use, upkeep, and maintenance. Below are some general tips for proper shaver maintenance; however, these should not replace the tips given in the manual for your specific model.
Clean your shaver's screen and cutter regularly
On most shavers you can lift off the head frame which holds the screen in order to brush out any whisker residue. The shaver should come with a cleaning brush designed for this purpose. The cutter, located below the screen, is the area you need to brush out. Do not touch the screen itself with the brush; it is very fragile. It is best to clean your shaver at least every third shave, preferably more frequently. You can also use a specialized cleaning solution as recommended by the manufacturer for a really thorough cleaning.
The screen and cutter need lubrication
Spray a lubricant (there are plenty designed and recommended by shaver manufacturers) on the shaving screen while the shaver is running. This will free up any metal-to-metal binding that may be impeding the shaver's effectiveness. Use the lubricant sparingly, and apply as directed by the manufacturer. It is best to lubricate the cutter just before you shave. You don't need to wipe off excess lubricant.
Changing your foil and cutter
Most foil and cutter sets need to be changed about once per year; sooner if you have a tough beard or if you don't clean out and lubricate your shaver frequently enough. Change the foil and cutter at the same time. As your cutter gets duller, your foil gradually gets thinner as well. Installing a new, sharp cutter under a thinning foil can break a hole in the foil, and you could possibly be cut.
STRAIGHT RAZORS
The straight razor is constructed of a long, hardened steel blade attached to a handle by means of a pivot. The handle is typically made of hard rubber, plastic, or bone. You may have seen one in your old-style local barbershop, or in an old movie—or perhaps you know someone who uses one on a regular basis.
A straight razor is a classic shaving implement, and one that is not as commonly used since the invention of the safety razor. However, some men still enjoy shaving with a straight razor, and so can you if you are so inclined to do a little research on straight razor care and technique.
One advantage of a straight razor is that, if properly cared for, the blade can last for generations. Unlike disposable blades, which we simply throw away after a few shaves when they become too dull to use, straight razors are frequently "stropped" and periodically "honed" to maintain their sharp cutting edge. If you choose a straight razor, you should be prepared to spend some quality time maintaining it in order to get an effective shave.
When shopping for a straight razor, you should look for a shop that deals with high quality shaving equipment and/or high quality knives. Ideally, find a shop where the salespeople actually use the products they sell, so that they can provide you with quality advice on using and maintaining your razor.
For your first straight razor, it is probably best to avoid buying the most expensive model (in case you give up on the whole thing). Nor is it wise to buy the cheapest model (a poor quality razor can keep you from getting a good shave and enjoying the experience). Buy a razor that balances quality and price. Discuss with your salesperson which choice might be best for you and your beard-type.
Important points to consider with your salesperson when buying a straight razor are:
Balance
The balance refers to the relative weight and length of the blade as compared with that of the handle. A straight razor is properly balanced when the weight of the blade is equal to that of the handle.
Temper
Tempering the razor involves a heat treatment imparted to the blade during its manufacture. Razors can be purchased with either a hard, soft, or medium temper, each with its own set of pros and cons.
Size
The size of the razor refers to the length and width of the blade.
Grind
The grind of a razor refers to the shape of the blade. There are two basic types of grind: the concave grind and the wedge grind.
Finish
The finish of a razor is the condition of its surface, which may be either plain steel, crocus (polished steel) or metal plated (nickel or silver). The crocus finish usually lasts longer and shows the least rust of the three.
Style
The style simply refers to the overall design and look of the razor.
In addition to purchasing the straight razor itself, you must also buy a few additional items in order to maintain the blade:
Strop
All straight razors require daily stropping before and after use to straighten and re-align their edge. Individuals with coarse beards may also need to strop their razors during a shaving session. Stropping involves passing the blade in a back-and-forth motion over a strop, which is usually made of leather. Strops come in both belt and paddle styles. Belts often have a leather side and a linen/cotton side, while paddles can have 2, 3, or 4 sides.
Strop Paste
Strop paste is a leather conditioner that is used to protect and condition the leather strop, while improving stropping by causing additional drag on the razor. There are several strop pastes available, usually in different colors, and each has a different purpose. When choosing your stop, discuss with the salesperson which strop paste is right for you.
Hone
Even with daily stropping, all razors lose their edge over time. To replace the edge you will need to periodically hone your razor. Honing re-establishes the fine edge of the razor by actually removing some of the metal from the razor (as opposed to stropping, which simply reshapes the edge). Ask your salesperson for a recommendation on how often you should hone the razor you choose. As a general rule, you should hone your razor when it starts to drag on your face, even after you have stropped it properly. Always use a hone specifically designed for razors (not for kitchen or hunting knives), with a minimum of 6,000 grit (8,000-10,000 is preferred).
Consult with your salesperson or an experienced straight razor user on proper stropping and honing techniques. A traditional barbershop textbook may also provide detailed examples of honing techniques.
For online guides to use and care of your straight razor, including stropping and honing techniques, check the following sites:
www.en.NassRasur.com/razorcentral/index.html (this one has really extensive instructions)
www.classicshaving.citymax.com
premiumknives.com/ShopSite/Shaving_Razors_and_stropes_and_Shaving_Accessories.html (click on the "Straight Razors" section)
www.gentlemans-shop.com
www.knifecenter.com/knifecenter/sharpen/instrazor.html
The following is a link to a yahoo groups site for straight razor users:
health.groups.yahoo.com/group/straightrazorplace
Straight Razor Care
In addition to stropping and honing, care should be taken to prevent corrosion from forming on the razor. With this in mind, you should rinse your razor after each use and allow it to thoroughly air dry before putting it away. Keep the blade lubricated with a light grade oil after each shaving session.
Straight razor shaving tips
All of the advice provided in the "wet shaving" section applies to the straight razor section as well. However, there are a few techniques specific to straight razor shaving that are described below.
Many men report they get the best results with a straight razor used in combination with a traditional shaving brush and a glycerin-based shave soap. (Click here for more information on the use of shave brushes and shave soap.)
Once you have prepped your face and beard in the manner described in the "wet shaving" section, open your razor to 270 degrees, so the handle is pointed up and the blade edge is pointed down. This position allows for good control while shaving. Run the blade under hot water just before use. Begin with the side-burns and cheeks, then the neck, then the upper lip and chin.
One of the great benefits of a straight razor is that you can adjust the blade angle for different parts of the beard and face. When you are first starting to shave with a straight razor, begin with a more forgiving blade angle of around 90 degrees against the skin. Once you have learned to handle the razor adeptly, you may try more aggressive angles, up to about 30 degrees. The razor should glide smoothly over your face. Rinse the razor under hot running water frequently to remove oil, soap and hair.
Be careful to never move the razor in a cutting motion parallel to the blade edge; you will cut yourself. Also be careful to not hit your razor on the sink as this could permanently damage the razor's edge.
WET SHAVING TOOLS
Disposable razors
A major advantage to disposables is that they are convenient and readily available. One drawback is they involve a lot of waste-- either the entire razor is thrown away in the case of one-piece disposables, or the cartridges are thrown away in the case of disposables where you keep the razor handle. Plus, cartridges tend to be more expensive than buying individual blades. If you've found a specific brand that works well for you, by all means stick to it. However, if you are considering costs over a lifetime of use, a quality double-edged safety razor with replaceable blades might save you money in the long run.
Double-Edge (Non-disposable) Safety Razors
The double-edge safety razor is a great value among wet shavers. This type of shaver has a sturdy handle and a shave head that are typically made of metal. The user can open the metal head and insert a new double-edged replacement blade once the old one has become dull. Replacement blades are inexpensive, easy to find, and provide two shaving edges per blade, so they last twice as long. These razors provide a clean, close shave, and if properly cared for, there is no reason why a well-made safety razor shouldn't last a lifetime.
Straight razor
See the previous section for details on the straight razor.
Shave brushes
The shave brush is an important part of the shaving process that has been left behind by many over time, but it is a wonderful tool for preparing the face for shaving.
The best quality shave brushes are made from 100% badger hair. Badger hair is very fibrous and retains a large volume of water, which is key to producing a warm, rich and lubricating lather for an exceptional shave. Shave brushes are also made of synthetic fibers (the least expensive and least effective), boar bristle (better than synthetic, not as good as badger), or synthetic/natural blends, but badger hair works the best of them all. Badger hair brushes are then graded into three categories: Pure badger (least expensive of the badgers), Best badger (more expensive than Pure badger), and Silvertip badger or "Super badger" (most expensive of all).
If cared for properly, shave brushes should last many years, so it may be wise to invest in a Pure badger brush ($20-$80) as it will perform well for some time. If your budget constrains you from being able to go with a badger brush, Boar bristle brushes tend to be comparable in price to synthetic brushes, but usually far outperform them.
Shave brushes are usually used in combination with a glycerin-based shave soap and a shave mug (see below), though you can use them with shave creams as well. To work a shave soap into a lather inside your shave mug, first drench the brush bristles with warm water. Brush the shave soap in a circular, whisking motion with the shave brush until a rich lather forms. Do not press down on the bristles, as this may damage the brush-- simply move in quick circular motions.
The lather you create with a shave brush and shave soap will not be a thick like the foam that comes out of a shaving cream can. It will be a thinner, yet rich lather. If you seem to be getting what looks like bubble water, you either haven't worked the lather enough, or you added a bit too much water. Experiment until you produce a good lather.
Use the brush to apply the lather to your beard in small, gentle, circular motions, or in gentle painting motions. Do not press the bristles hard against your face, as this could damage the brush. The action of the brush helps lift the hairs while laying down a slippery barrier of lather. This barrier reduces razor drag and skippage. You can renew the lather on your face while shaving by simply reworking the lather with the shave brush.
Always rinse your brush well under warm water after each use and gently flick out the excess water. Stand the brush upright in a dry environment or place it on a shave brush stand, allowing it to air dry fully after each use. Never put a wet shave brush in an enclosed place. A very basic brush stand costs about $4-5, and will keep your brush in good condition for years to come.
Shave soaps
A good shave soap can used along with a shave brush make a difference in the feel and closeness of your shave. A basic, glycerin-based shave soap will generate a rich, slippery lather for a close shave, and has a few other virtues as well: it is biodegradeable and there is no canister to discard nor propellants released into the air. Shave soaps also tend to be inexpensive.
Shave soaps look like ordinary soap (white or colored) in the shape of a hockey puck. Some shave soaps come in their own special bowl-like containers, but it is usually less messy to use a shave soap and brush with a shave mug.
Shave mugs
Shave mugs look like ordinary mugs except they are larger overall, and wider at their opening than at the bottom. This allows for room to put the shave soap in the bottom of the mug, as well as room to whip the soap into a lather with your shave brush.
SHAVING-RELATED LINKS
Sites with excellent shaving informaion, in addtion to selling shaving products:
www.classicshaving.citymax.com
premiumknives.com/ShopSite/Shaving_Razors_and_stropes_and_Shaving_Accessories.html
www.gentlemans-shop.com
Extensive information on straight razors and wet shaving:
www.en.NassRasur.com/razorcentral/index.html
Site providing basic information on shaving history and technique:
www.e-shaving.com
Site with numerous hard-to-find men's classic toiletries and shaving supplies:
www.e-barbershop.com
Sites selling classic and contemporary shaving products:
www.coolshaving.com
www.amazingshaving.com
www.shaveshop.com
www.shavingsupplies.com
www.nashvilleknifeshop.com
Sells men's skin care products, but also offers advice columns on grooming:
www.menessentials.com
Bump Fighter Shaving System on Greatrazors.com:
greatrazors.zoovy.com/category/mensbumpfighter
Bumphree product site (razor bumps):
www.bumphree.com
