Car in winter?
- Thread starter Kaitin
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Here's a PARTIAL winter list I'm sure others will add to:
For the engine:
Antifreeze: a 50-50 mix of water and antifreeze fluid is best, protecting down to 35 below zero.
Battery: auto batteries love to die when you need ‘em the most. Make sure posts and connections are free of corrosion and are not frayed. When temperatures drop below zero, even a good battery’s power level drops by 50%. If older than three years, have your battery tested at a certified facility.
Oil: Change engine oil to adjust the viscosity grade. The colder and dirtier oil is, the thicker and more sluggish it will be. Thinner, cleaner oil will put less stress on the battery and starter, as well as conserve fuel. Check your owner’s manual for the correct oil for the temperatures you anticipate.
While you’re at it, make sure windshield wiper blades do their job and the washer solvent is topped off and won’t freeze. Also check all belts and hoses under the hood for wear and proper tension.
Fuel: Keeping your fuel tank as full as possible, never below half, keeps condensation (water) in the fuel system to a minimum and provides fuel for emergencies. A full tank can maake the difference between life and death when stuck in the cold.
Other stuff:
Tires. Consider changing to snow tires in winter. They’re not magic, but they provide better traction in mud and snow. Tire pressure changes in the cold, so keep them inflated to manufacturer’s specs for best traction. In Montana, Idaho, Washington, and Oregon, road authorities REQUIRE chains to go over some mountain passes. I’m sure other places have similar regulations. You need a set for each power axle, and if you don’t know how to put them on and take them off properly, then don’t drive where they are needed.
Carry a winter emergency bag inside your car. Okay, so it’s more junk in back, but this is a case of better safe than sorry. Things you absolutely MUST have:
* Blanket, coveralls, coat, and gloves. In an emergency, put warm clothes on FIRST!!
*Flashlight, flares, and first-aid kit.
*Snow brush and ice scraper.
*Jumper cables and basic tools, including an ax and snow shovel
*Containers of extra food, water, and matches.
Other things I personally never leave home without:
*a text phone with numbers to call for help on the speed dial
*a waterproof tarp
*a down sleeping bag rated to 20 below zero
*a .22 with a brick of ammo (If you have to ask what a brick is, you probably won't have the gun along, so don't worry about it)
For the engine:
Antifreeze: a 50-50 mix of water and antifreeze fluid is best, protecting down to 35 below zero.
Battery: auto batteries love to die when you need ‘em the most. Make sure posts and connections are free of corrosion and are not frayed. When temperatures drop below zero, even a good battery’s power level drops by 50%. If older than three years, have your battery tested at a certified facility.
Oil: Change engine oil to adjust the viscosity grade. The colder and dirtier oil is, the thicker and more sluggish it will be. Thinner, cleaner oil will put less stress on the battery and starter, as well as conserve fuel. Check your owner’s manual for the correct oil for the temperatures you anticipate.
While you’re at it, make sure windshield wiper blades do their job and the washer solvent is topped off and won’t freeze. Also check all belts and hoses under the hood for wear and proper tension.
Fuel: Keeping your fuel tank as full as possible, never below half, keeps condensation (water) in the fuel system to a minimum and provides fuel for emergencies. A full tank can maake the difference between life and death when stuck in the cold.
Other stuff:
Tires. Consider changing to snow tires in winter. They’re not magic, but they provide better traction in mud and snow. Tire pressure changes in the cold, so keep them inflated to manufacturer’s specs for best traction. In Montana, Idaho, Washington, and Oregon, road authorities REQUIRE chains to go over some mountain passes. I’m sure other places have similar regulations. You need a set for each power axle, and if you don’t know how to put them on and take them off properly, then don’t drive where they are needed.
Carry a winter emergency bag inside your car. Okay, so it’s more junk in back, but this is a case of better safe than sorry. Things you absolutely MUST have:
* Blanket, coveralls, coat, and gloves. In an emergency, put warm clothes on FIRST!!
*Flashlight, flares, and first-aid kit.
*Snow brush and ice scraper.
*Jumper cables and basic tools, including an ax and snow shovel
*Containers of extra food, water, and matches.
Other things I personally never leave home without:
*a text phone with numbers to call for help on the speed dial
*a waterproof tarp
*a down sleeping bag rated to 20 below zero
*a .22 with a brick of ammo (If you have to ask what a brick is, you probably won't have the gun along, so don't worry about it)
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You're very welcome, Kaitin. I hope others with more automotive knowledge than me will add to this post.
Something I'll add about cars and clothing. In most country locations, it's best to stay with your vehicle when stuck, especially if your car runs and your heater works. Just be careful you have proper ventilation inside. If I'm parked and sleepy, I shut the engine off until the cold wakes me.
But in isolated mountain country, several drivers have been found dead of thirst or hunger in the spring. If you have to leave your vehicle, you will need proper clothing.
In the snowy north, cotton is called "the death fabric." It works okay when dry, but if wet with weather or sweat, you may die quickly from hypothermia, even in temperatures above freezing.
Winter underwear should be of a fabric which wicks moisture to outer garments. Cotton wil NOT do that. You don't need high-tech clothing. If socks and outer garments are made of wool, thwey will keep you warm, even when wet.
There are too many survival tricks to list them all here, but an on-line search will turn up a wilderness survival guide for the area where you live. Print it out. If you get stuck, it's something to read or paper to start a fire, ha ha ha.
Something I'll add about cars and clothing. In most country locations, it's best to stay with your vehicle when stuck, especially if your car runs and your heater works. Just be careful you have proper ventilation inside. If I'm parked and sleepy, I shut the engine off until the cold wakes me.
But in isolated mountain country, several drivers have been found dead of thirst or hunger in the spring. If you have to leave your vehicle, you will need proper clothing.
In the snowy north, cotton is called "the death fabric." It works okay when dry, but if wet with weather or sweat, you may die quickly from hypothermia, even in temperatures above freezing.
Winter underwear should be of a fabric which wicks moisture to outer garments. Cotton wil NOT do that. You don't need high-tech clothing. If socks and outer garments are made of wool, thwey will keep you warm, even when wet.
There are too many survival tricks to list them all here, but an on-line search will turn up a wilderness survival guide for the area where you live. Print it out. If you get stuck, it's something to read or paper to start a fire, ha ha ha.
Roadrunner
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very much, Chase. I didn't know all these and never think about oil etc.
As with oil in a car, compare that somewhat to the 'blood' in our bodies. It's vital to have blood, in the same sense, it's imperative to have oil in the car maintained (having it at the proper level it needs to be at) and changed after so many miles (check your car's manual for mileage and times to change it--). As with oil, it gets dirty, worn out, etc., and will need clean oil--
Thanks to Chase for providing an outline/list of preparing a car for winter use.
~RR
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Tousi brings up a good point I forgot because everyone who parks a car outdoors in the far north has one. It's an oil-pan heater or a water-circulation heater (forget a "headbolt heater," as they don't help a bit) you plug in so the liquid in your car will still be liquid and not paste when you go to start 'er up.
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Winterize Your Vehicle
This provides a good detail how to winterize your car. The picture guide is also helpful to those who do not understand cars.
This provides a good detail how to winterize your car. The picture guide is also helpful to those who do not understand cars.
That is one of my biggest problems at the moment dang..
horselover61
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when I got a truck about a month ago and the dealer put in the new battery so that one I dont have to worry. But I have to get my oil change and a tires too.
Also before you drive in your vehicle in a cold winter start your car before you drive give about 10 to 20 minutes to warm it up.
Also before you drive in your vehicle in a cold winter start your car before you drive give about 10 to 20 minutes to warm it up.
horselover61
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I used to do that throw shovel in my old car back in late 1980 and after I got out of work and it was snowing. I had to use it and my co worker wanted to borrow it. LOL
Chase said:
It's not possible for me, since I am having a leak in many different places from the gas line under my car, and I've ran out of gas twice this week and got stuck. I can imagine how suck it is to have a gas that is leaking, which makes it impossible for me to have a full tank of gas, I cannot get it repair at this time where money isn't available. But, before winter, I had oil/filter changed, new front tires, new brakes on all four, and flush of anti-freeze and fill. That's all I could afford as for right now.
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Cheri, I am very worried about your safety. ONE gas leak is deadly dangerous. Many will surely catch your car on fire. Please park your car in the open, away from any building, and don't drive it any more until you ask for help from a friend who is a mechanic or knows a mechanic. Please.
I have been too poor to afford repairs, but being poor is better than being badly burned. Please get the gas leak or don't drive the car, no matter what the reason.
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What about a spark, or hot exhaust, or lit cigarette near the car? That seems so dangerous.
Tousi
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Oh, boy, Cheri! You have a deadly dangerous thing going on here now. I'm sorry but you need to have it towed to your mechanic right now and work out the details of paying for it. I am guessing it should not be all that much but I'm not sure of the specifics of your leak(s).
Not trying to scare you but we are not exaggerating your problem as described. We all would miss your presence here at AD if something should happen to you or your boys. Hope you have towing with your insurance because that will be the best way to get it to your mechanic's garage.
Not trying to scare you but we are not exaggerating your problem as described. We all would miss your presence here at AD if something should happen to you or your boys. Hope you have towing with your insurance because that will be the best way to get it to your mechanic's garage.
They can't come up this weekend.
Yes Chase, Reba and Tousi, I know how dangerous it is to drive with a leaking gas from a car, this is the only car I have. Almost all auto places that I've called won't accept payment plans, what choice do I have?
The only times it would leaks is during the time I drive and after I drive the car. This is why I run out of gas so fast, and get stuck in the cold weather. It made it so much impossible to keep the gas in the tank.