Toyota Truck built out of boredom...

AlaskaStar

AlaskaStar

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Being unemployed and bored, I picked up a 1991 Toyota short bed, small-cab base model 4x4 truck equipped with a 4-cylinder engine and manual transmission.

I started by removing the bed. Soon I will have the axle from a 1997 Ford Windstar welded to it and for sale on Craigslist for $500 bucks as a trailer. People seem to like that kind of junk...

Then I disconnected everything from the cab and picked the cab up and set it on blocks over the rear axle. Then I removed the engine. Tore the engine down, and rebuilt it. I am in the midst of doing a conversion to dual row roller timing chain setup, and been working the lathe pretty good for that bit.

I cross drilled the crankshaft and machined the main and rod bearings to have full oil groove all the way around and added a second oil spray hole on each rod to keep the cylinder walls lubed. There is a "third" oil spray hole, but that has a small copper pipe connecting it to the wrist pin which I also grooved and ported for pressurized oil feed.

I made a new oil pan, shallow, with external connection to the oil pump. I am dry sumping the engine. I machined the flywheel to increase pressure on the pressure plate and got a Kevlar clutch disc, roller bearing for the pilot bearing as well as a new throw-out bearing.

I took the under-direct-over splitter box from an Allis Chalmers WD45 tractor and mounted into the rear driveline so that I have now a 15-speed gear ratio to the rear axle and when in 4x4 will just use the direct and not the under-over gears.

The frame was chopped in half between the crossmember that the fuel tank is bolted to and the torsion bars to the front axle, and 88 inches were added to the length of the frame. The length of the truck is now 23 feet.

I added middle-segments to the brake and fuel lines to accommodate the change in length of the frame. The rear driveline had 7 feet added to it's length.

The rear axle has a 4 inch lift, and the front axle remains stock except for running the torsion board all the way down to increase ride height on the front.

The segment of body from the rear door to the back window from a 1992 4-Runner was added to the cab (that is 48.5 inches long) only from the window-line up. Below that is tool boxes, and centered fuel tank.

Body was lifted 4 inches above the frame using 4x4 square tube that's 1/4 inch thick.

Due to the difference in alignment of engine height and placement of the fan to radiator, I opted to put a hood scoop on the hood facing back and move the radiator to the inside of the hood and use electric fan to cool it. This also will help keep my windshield relatively ice-free in winter as well as pre-heat the air coming in from outside to help warm the cab. The cab lift bought me 4 inches of hood-to-engine clearance, so this is not a problem.

I am using a new hog scalder inside the tool boxes connected to the cooling system to make it a very dry place to put boots, chains, shovel etc in winter with a valve to turn it off when need be.

I had scored a Maxon 72-150B Tuck-Away Hydraulic Liftgate to go under the flatbed for $50 at a yard sale 3 years ago- it had NEVER been installed or used ever. Still has the factory plugs in the cylinder and the shipping straps in place.

The flatbed is a full 8 feet long and 6 feet wide. It has a complete ladder rack overhead which doubles as the locking structure for the side panels.

The side panels are stored underneath the bed like a desk drawer, simply pull out, flip up and they latch into the ladder rack support structure. The box-roof is on the under/ outside of the side panels and simply unlatch flip up and slide in to make the truck go from flatbed to box truck in mere seconds.

On both ends is a winch. Front frame is beefed up to accommodate a 6-way V-plow that I am making out of an old propane tank.

Since I no longer have the radiator behind the grille, I have a slab of 1 inch thick bulletproof plexiglass that I mounted there with FOUR spotlights behind it (try shooting my lights out buddy! DARE YA!)

The cab extension is to cure the problem with single-cab Toyota trucks. It can hold 3 adult humans safely. As soon as one person has a soda in their hand, everyone lost all their leg room. If you must get a gallon of milk, you would be screwed so you put it in the bed and when you get home you have a milkshake!

The truck does NOT have power steering, but the power steering pump and brackets/ pulleys from a 1992 4-Runner are what's being used to supply the hydraulics needed for the Lift-Gate as well as all the cylinders on the plow.

Electric solenoid valves are used as the interface for human because they don't leak and make mess. I can just push a button and have action as long as the engine is running.

Now if you ever wonder what I do when I am bored out of my mind, and have plenty of materials to play with... now you know.

I am trying to figure out a paint color. That hideous Red that Toyota painted 9 out of 10 trucks in that year has to go. I need a good simple color. Any suggestions?

One last tidbit- 16" subwoofers behind the seats. I am deaf so I want some serious thumping while driving....

And the boredom continues....
 
Me and a friend chopped one but we made it shorter. Rear tires just behind the cab and a 4' bed. Sounds like your having fun!
 
Do you think with all that extra weight and a plow that you'll regret no power steering? I had an '85 with no power steering and no cup holders. Was ok unless you where trying to turn the wheels when you weren't moving, like navigating out of a parking lot with a cup of coffee in one hand. I quickly added both. If you don't have an AC pump there is plenty of room to add another hydraulic pump in there.

And yes, we NEED pictures!
 
Pictures Please... or as I heard Jiros favorite saying....
Didn't happen....lol
 
What engine code do u have? 22R or 22R-E? 22R is carburetor, 22R-E is fuel injection. The engine size is 2.4 L with single timing roller chain. Where did u get dual timing roller chain and sprockets? I did head works on Toyota 2.4L engines few times. I guess u got dual roller chain and sprockets from older Toyota maybe 3AC. I can't recall it.. Is this 2.4L engine having enuff power to hauling or plowing?:hmm:
 
I had an early 22r 2.4L that had a double roller chain. I've read people doing the upgrade, getting the old gears and chain but I don't know if you have to make clearance with the timing cover.

Plenty enough power for small plow and light towing but that's stock. Sounds like he's added a bit of weight.
 
As I recall the chain guides for the double roller where metal with a plastic ends, probably because they stuck out a lot further. Considering I've replaced at least 2 other chains for people that had the single roller plastic only guides broken off long before they wore out it's probably a good upgrade for any engine that going to see hard use. The biggest pita about the guide breaking is the chain would then cut into the timing cover right where there is a coolant channel. Instant coolant in your oil. I don't know how people ignored that noise.
 
jonnyghost said:
I had an early 22r 2.4L that had a double roller chain. I've read people doing the upgrade, getting the old gears and chain but I don't know if you have to make clearance with the timing cover.

Plenty enough power for small plow and light towing but that's stock. Sounds like he's added a bit of weight.
Click to expand...

Maybe u are right. I forget abt double roller chains that used in early 22R engine. Single roller chains are still using in modern engines. Hate single roller chains.
 
Yup, only a couple years. I think 1980 was the 20R so probably from 81-83 had the double roller. Maybe 84 but I know they made some changes in 85 when fuel injection became optional.
 
jonnyghost said:
As I recall the chain guides for the double roller where metal with a plastic ends, probably because they stuck out a lot further. Considering I've replaced at least 2 other chains for people that had the single roller plastic only guides broken off long before they wore out it's probably a good upgrade for any engine that going to see hard use. The biggest pita about the guide breaking is the chain would then cut into the timing cover right where there is a coolant channel. Instant coolant in your oil. I don't know how people ignored that noise.
Click to expand...

I recall I diagnosed a 1990 Nissan 240 SX for coolant loss, couldn't find coolant in cylinders, called for head gasket replacement along valve job head. Got authorized from a customer then pull a head off and examined head gasket and check warp, found nothing wrong. I investigated where did coolant leak, found coolant drip from the timing cover where the timing chain rubbing the coolant jacket (channel), blame on broken plastic chain guide. I sold new timing chain cover along valve job head and chain kit..
 
Sounds like the same setup. I talked to one mechanic that did the timing chain but missed the coolant leak somehow. Guy didn't come back until his engine started to knock a couple days later. Ouch.
 
Dual row timing chain set for my truck, which has the 22RE (1991, so it's got fuel injection) is not the same as the old 20r because the deck height is different which sets the timing off, and you have to remove 2.5 chain links which turns it into a nightmare.

My solution was simpler. I get the timing cover from LCE:

22R New Timing Chain Cover (85-95) for LCE Conv

or:

22R/RE LCE Dual Row Timing Chain Conversion Kit

and then instead of buying the $35 oil pump drive, I merely chucked my stock unit into the lathe and cut the length down to 1.200 inches from 1.700 inches.

The chain itself was bought at the local Fastenal, and cut to length. I took two timing gears and made a spacer shim, then put them in a holding fixture and welded them together for both the crank and cam sprockets and cleaned up on the lathe.

The guides were the easy part, just use an old one as a pattern and weld up new ones, and for the sliding surface, use Nyloil (same stuff Briggs and Stratton makes whole camshafts out of...) that I got from CAC Plastics in Wasilla and cut it to dimension and mount it onto the steel backing.

The timing cover itself from stock is 5mm too shallow for this conversion and the 20r timing cover is not long enough to reach from the pan to the cylinder head. I had to by the correct cover...

Kevlar Clutch from Alaska Clutch in Anchorage with new roller pilot bearing, pressure plate (with stronger springs), and throw-out bearing (NO PLASTIC!) was only $159.

I doubt I will regret the lack of power steering because I normally plow snow using a tractor that doesn't have power steering so I have a habit of making sure I am moving even at a low speed to make it easier to steer. If you aren't moving at all, it's hard to steer, but if the vehicle is moving, even if slowly, it's a lot easier.

I don't have an AC pump on it, but would like to find one to put on it, not for AC, but for use as an air compressor (electric clutches... gotta love em!) for handy things like oh... FILLING TIRES for example... or running an impact wrench.... or...?

Everyone wants pictures. As soon as I can figure out this goofy website setup to post a picture or 100 of them, then I will. I've tried several times and they will not take for some reason.
 
The early 22r had the double roller too. I had one once. Yea you can get awesome cfm from the ac compressor, i keep wanting to do that to my jeep.
 
Oh, i see my last post was a little confusing. I meant it must have been the 82 to 83 and possibly the 84 and 85 because they are the 22r and the 80 to 81 where the 20r
 
Wow, I thought 22R engine parts are no longer to market cuz of too old but they are live. I don't know that.
 
jonnyghost said:
The early 22r had the double roller too. I had one once. Yea you can get awesome cfm from the ac compressor, i keep wanting to do that to my jeep.
Click to expand...

You talk about cfm from the ac compressor? Oh wtf, I second that. I remember the Toyota pick up truck maybe 1997 with flashy colorful painted body that came in for smog inspection about 5 years ago...I was told not touch the joystick on the console, I don't understand it then open a hood, stunning to see the inner fenders were deleted and see modified suspensions with air bags. The emission things on or around the engine looks stock and no hi performance parts. I spot the ac line from compressor was cut and leave open (large hose), I traced where the high pressure line come from. I know the high pressure line from compressor to condenser but I saw the high pressure line routed to under the frame, then I keep trace the line, found twin small tanks, I got to know why the ac compressor is for air bag shocks to create wild hoppy body. The chassis frame were hand made (tig welded). But I was not bother it and focus on smog inspection...passed smog inspection, I feel something bother me that large hose (ac hose) was leave open to atmosphere without filter, wonder if dirty or foreign material maybe tiny sands enter the open mouth of hose and damage ac compressor. I was surprise how a clever guy converted ac compressor to air compressor. Looks simple....
 
AlaskaStar said:
Dual row timing chain set for my truck, which has the 22RE (1991, so it's got fuel injection) is not the same as the old 20r because the deck height is different which sets the timing off, and you have to remove 2.5 chain links which turns it into a nightmare.

My solution was simpler. I get the timing cover from LCE:

22R New Timing Chain Cover (85-95) for LCE Conv

or:

22R/RE LCE Dual Row Timing Chain Conversion Kit

and then instead of buying the $35 oil pump drive, I merely chucked my stock unit into the lathe and cut the length down to 1.200 inches from 1.700 inches.

The chain itself was bought at the local Fastenal, and cut to length. I took two timing gears and made a spacer shim, then put them in a holding fixture and welded them together for both the crank and cam sprockets and cleaned up on the lathe.

The guides were the easy part, just use an old one as a pattern and weld up new ones, and for the sliding surface, use Nyloil (same stuff Briggs and Stratton makes whole camshafts out of...) that I got from CAC Plastics in Wasilla and cut it to dimension and mount it onto the steel backing.

The timing cover itself from stock is 5mm too shallow for this conversion and the 20r timing cover is not long enough to reach from the pan to the cylinder head. I had to by the correct cover...

Kevlar Clutch from Alaska Clutch in Anchorage with new roller pilot bearing, pressure plate (with stronger springs), and throw-out bearing (NO PLASTIC!) was only $159.

I doubt I will regret the lack of power steering because I normally plow snow using a tractor that doesn't have power steering so I have a habit of making sure I am moving even at a low speed to make it easier to steer. If you aren't moving at all, it's hard to steer, but if the vehicle is moving, even if slowly, it's a lot easier.

I don't have an AC pump on it, but would like to find one to put on it, not for AC, but for use as an air compressor (electric clutches... gotta love em!) for handy things like oh... FILLING TIRES for example... or running an impact wrench.... or...?

Everyone wants pictures. As soon as I can figure out this goofy website setup to post a picture or 100 of them, then I will. I've tried several times and they will not take for some reason.
Click to expand...

https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/instantupload

Try this and it's pretty simple.



I want to see your pictures!!
 
deafsmogtech said:
You talk about cfm from the ac compressor? Oh wtf, I second that. I remember the Toyota pick up truck maybe 1997 with flashy colorful painted body that came in for smog inspection about 5 years ago...I was told not touch the joystick on the console, I don't understand it then open a hood, stunning to see the inner fenders were deleted and see modified suspensions with air bags. The emission things on or around the engine looks stock and no hi performance parts. I spot the ac line from compressor was cut and leave open (large hose), I traced where the high pressure line come from. I know the high pressure line from compressor to condenser but I saw the high pressure line routed to under the frame, then I keep trace the line, found twin small tanks, I got to know why the ac compressor is for air bag shocks to create wild hoppy body. The chassis frame were hand made (tig welded). But I was not bother it and focus on smog inspection...passed smog inspection, I feel something bother me that large hose (ac hose) was leave open to atmosphere without filter, wonder if dirty or foreign material maybe tiny sands enter the open mouth of hose and damage ac compressor. I was surprise how a clever guy converted ac compressor to air compressor. Looks simple....
Click to expand...


I hope it have drain valve or tanks will rust quick.

What is wild hoppy body?
Clever but sweat a lot during rush hour without AC. :laugh2: I never forget that one dude removed AC off from his sport car for more HP and he got stuck in rush hour at Chicago in summer and he got a LOT SWEAT like hell.
 
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