Thinking of getting a new truck...

dereksbicycles said:
I am not sure how to back up trailer. I have tried and I am not good with backing up a trailer. It was fun driving with trailer, but a pain in the butt to back it up.
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The trick is to put ur hand on bottom of steering wheel, and when u move ur hand right that's same direction trailer follows. Vice versa move left it turns left.. this is while backing up.. takes a little practice on parking lot and can do..
:aw:
 
deafsmogtech said:
Good. 3.9L OHV V6 I think. Good motor/tranny. I think your gamble on used truck is right choice. Good luck.
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Sorry I forget to reply to your heater issue. It should be T-stat (short word for thermostat) or heater control valve or broken blend door. Diagnostic Tip:
Put your hand on the heater hoses at the firewall ( CAUTION.. HOT HEATER HOSES), like touch with your finger on the hose to make sure the hose is not hot. Felt both heater hoses.... If both hot hoses you may have HVAC problem like broken blend door or bad electric blend door actuator motor. Hope that help. Dst
 
deafsmogtech said:
Sorry I forget to reply to your heater issue. It should be T-stat (short word for thermostat) or heater control valve or broken blend door. Diagnostic Tip:
Put your hand on the heater hoses at the firewall ( CAUTION.. HOT HEATER HOSES), like touch with your finger on the hose to make sure the hose is not hot. Felt both heater hoses.... If both hot hoses you may have HVAC problem like broken blend door or bad electric blend door actuator motor. Hope that help. Dst
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While running or when not running?
 
SilentRider said:
The trick is to put ur hand on bottom of steering wheel, and when u move ur hand right that's same direction trailer follows. Vice versa move left it turns left.. this is while backing up.. takes a little practice on parking lot and can do..
:aw:
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A lot of practice!!!
 
dereksbicycles said:
A lot of practice!!!
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Rofl:lol: it was cheaper for me to get a trailer for my dirt bikes and keep the suv, than buying a nice full flatbed truck. Plus I can leave the bikes in and it becomes a lil garage shedding. And when free just hook up and go! :cool2: took me a couple days and got used to it.. I do admit it helps if u visualize where it gonna go.. where ur gonna park ahead of time.. but does the job. :D
 
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dereksbicycles said:
Had it running 5 minutes. Did not get hot hoses.
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Try drive for 10 mins then check. There will be 2 hoses to cab's firewall. hoses look to be 1" thick. Do you see that?


Here important leave truck cool down before open radiator cap. DON'T OPEN if engine hot it will push pressure. Look at coolant what color do you see.

Green, brown, yellow, black, clay, and sludge?
 
dereksbicycles said:
Had it running 5 minutes. Did not get hot hoses.
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Both heater hoses are not getting hot or just one hose that get warm to hot? Did you see water temp gauge in the dash, how is cold or hot during driving? Normal? Too cold for long driving? If the water gauge shows cold after full warmed up or trip... it is T-Stat (stuck open). Before you check coolant level per Milwaukee mentioned... make sure the heater hoses are routing from the firewall to the intake manifold and water pump (metal tube or pipe). If not there is bypassed heater hose or plugged the end of the heater hoses that is defined leaky heater core cuz the previous owner or mechanic who bypass the hose, delete the leaky heater core. If none of them found then go with T-stat replacement. Dst
 
The gauge always read cold. Not worried about overheating at all. I have took it on 50, 60 miles round trip. No problem. I just wonder why heater is not always blowing hot. I don't really need heat, but would like it. I just worry that if thermostat is bad then it may lead to bad water pump in the near future.

Will do what you suggested and check again.
 
dereksbicycles said:
The gauge always read cold. Not worried about overheating at all. I have took it on 50, 60 miles round trip. No problem. I just wonder why heater is not always blowing hot. I don't really need heat, but would like it. I just worry that if thermostat is bad then it may lead to bad water pump in the near future.

Will do what you suggested and check again.
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Replace T-Stat, use Stant brand name (USA made), Don't settle Chinese made T-Stat. Take a look at water pump for sign of leaks or stained or original pump. If so , replace water pump as prevent maintenance. Dst
 
Part number for Stant Superstat # 45359 is the best T-Stat. Want cheaper? Use Stant Economy # 13009. Both are 195 degree F. Don't use 160 or 180 degree F. Make sure T-Stat have stamped "195F" on the bottom of the T-Stat cuz some counterman or mechanic mix up wrong T-Stats in boxes. Dst
 
All of my fords never let me down, not single one was junked under 200k miles. The key is to be consistent with vehicles maintenances.

Except for my mustang, at 46k miles I had to replace manifold gasket then have the manifold resurfaced. Thats the worst thing that have happened to me.
 
This is FYI, may save one of your ass. I would recommend against buy a vehicle that used to plow the snow.
One of my best friend learn his lesson, he bought a F-250 superduty diesel, just same as mine that used to be snow plow for commercials. He got tons of problems, already spent over 10,000 dollars in repairs/replacement. This includes steering system. Snow plowing puts alot stress on several major parts on vehicle and will have shorter lifespan.
 
dereksbicycles said:
The gauge always read cold. Not worried about overheating at all. I have took it on 50, 60 miles round trip. No problem. I just wonder why heater is not always blowing hot. I don't really need heat, but would like it. I just worry that if thermostat is bad then it may lead to bad water pump in the near future.

Will do what you suggested and check again.
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Open stuck T-Stat will not cause water pump failure, and cause excessive emissions cuz the computer see cold engine after warmed up, command rich air/fuel mixtures.
 
diehardbiker said:
This is FYI, may save one of your ass. I would recommend against buy a vehicle that used to plow the snow.
One of my best friend learn his lesson, he bought a F-250 superduty diesel, just same as mine that used to be snow plow for commercials. He got tons of problems, already spent over 10,000 dollars in repairs/replacement. This includes steering system. Snow plowing puts alot stress on several major parts on vehicle and will have shorter lifespan.
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ME TOO this 95 F250 only had 60K miles when I bought for $3000. WAS BIGGEST MISTAKE. It was COMMERCIAL plow truck for 15 years.
 
$3k is not that bad but yeah too much headache and unpredictable break downs. Not worth it.


Milwaukee said:
ME TOO this 95 F250 only had 60K miles when I bought for $3000. WAS BIGGEST MISTAKE. It was COMMERCIAL plow truck for 15 years.
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deafsmogtech said:
Part number for Stant Superstat # 45359 is the best T-Stat. Want cheaper? Use Stant Economy # 13009. Both are 195 degree F. Don't use 160 or 180 degree F. Make sure T-Stat have stamped "195F" on the bottom of the T-Stat cuz some counterman or mechanic mix up wrong T-Stats in boxes. Dst
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Do I use AUtoZone parts? That is what I've always used.
 
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