Perfect Wave (early morning)

AJ

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Perfect Morning

air so cold it burns the lungs
but i dont care
ive come for fun.
the winter sun has yet to rise
but soon she will
and brighten the skies.
the sand beneath my feet feels cold as ice.
but i have to admit it feels pretty nice.
inhale deeply
now exhale...
alright, ok.
here i go now
to rip on some waves.
dive into the water
the ocean so cold
it will take your breath away
all the air ur lungs can hold.
into foreign territory is where i swim.
the ocean's always different.
these waves will never be the same again.
the wind so cold it stings my face
but ill tough it out.
this is my favorite place.
out in the line up
now its a waiting game.
ill wait forever
for that one perfect wave.
ill wait an hour
ill wait all day
ill wait all year
just for that one perfect wave.
here comes one
Turn around now
my body tenses up
as the wave moves me forward.
i push up and stand on my board.
flying down this wall of water,
slip
trip
wipe out
now i got to wait for another.
paddle back out
to where i started before
wait for another one
im ready for more
ill wait forever
for that one perfect wave.
ill wait an hour
ill wait all day
ill wait all year
just for that one perfect wave.
the suns come up
it going to be a beautiful day.
 
:thumb: an inner surfer here who totally understands the vibe from your writings. Growing up in a surfer environment is probably the best spiritual experience I will ever have. :)
 
Im not a surfer but I did just now. A great way of showing us what its like out there.

Kangaroo
 
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