I've always found that removing yourself from play works better then removing the animal (cat or dog) from play. When my cat was younger, if he started playing to rough I would "squeak" and walk into another room. That's what other animals do when they play too rough together. It tells them "Ouch! That hurt! I don't want to play anymore." Each time I would make the "I'm not playing" timeout longer, slowly make the roughness needed for the break less and less, and eventually associate a cue with action, instead of just a squeak. For example, I'm playing with the cat. He bites me hard and digs his claws into my hand. I "squeak" and leave the room for 30 seconds. When I come back, he does it again, so I leave for a minute, then 2 minutes, etc. Once he figures out that biting and scratching makes me leave, he'll start testing what hurts and what doesn't. Then I would show him that yes, that nip still hurt, so I'm leaving. Yes that little bit of claw still hurt, so I'm leaving. As I'm doing that, I would pick a cue (claws for the cat, settle for the dogs), and I would introduce it by squeaking, saying the cue, and then walking away. Does that make sense?
As for the attacking your feet at night thing, can you try to wear her out right before bed? My cat did this when he was a kitten, but he's grown out of it. It helped a lot if I grabbed his feather toy (the stick with the sting and the feathers on the end?) and played played played before bed. Tucker him out. If that's not an option, or doesn't work, I don't see any problem with locking a cat in the bathroom at night, so long as they have a litter box and water. Dogs get kenneled at night. Why shouldn't cats? lol