1974 Ford F350

No ... not ignoring. I am reading all of the posts. I am writing a "to do" checklist for Monday when I have the time to look at everything and will report back.

Here is a video of it from yesterday afternoon:



I am going to restore it to functionality, then restore it cosmetically.

Handsome pic, I now see the box mounted on top of the wheel well on driver side, I believe this box is spark controller box ( I think it called DuraSpark) as ignition module. Did you see any wires or harness from the spark box route to the distributor? How many wires or numbers of harness tyhat attach to the distributor? But I guess someone put it from other year. I know the electronic distributor with spark box were used on Model Year 1975 but I dont know if they were used in late 1974. Often, I've been see many Ford guys harvested the electronic distributors w/ spark boxes from the boneyards (junk yards) to replace old fashion point type distributors in their old cars.
 
No ... not ignoring. I am reading all of the posts. I am writing a "to do" checklist for Monday when I have the time to look at everything and will report back.

Here is a video of it from yesterday afternoon:



Ah okay.

I am going to restore it to functionality, then restore it cosmetically.

:lol:, I agree with you about the ignition but many posters says fuel system problems, didn't says anything about the fuel pressure gauge or ignition.

Mine is to check vacuum source in the engine with a vacuum/fuel pressure gauge to see what the engine's health.... weak vacuum can be low compression, large vacuum leaks or incorrect base timing.

I don't see carburetor for long long times. I use my DMM with resistance to check ignition coil primary and ignition coil secondary.
 
I forget to add... make sure the spark box have good ground circuit like ground strap and look for any loose/corroded ground wires.
 
My best choice is Radioman's post #3..... Try to take a look at cracked or kinked fuel hoses at the fuel tank or dual fuel tanks (if you have a dual fuel tanks) before you take a look at the engine. Save you time.

Hey radioman, you are my man. Thx Dst
 
I just have a few minutes to post then I have to go. I found a dry rotted hose that was leaking gas. I replaced it - drove it around my neighborhood with no problems.

There is a lot of play in the steering and I will check the steering tmw or thursday. I was also installing new brake lights and turn signals. That is what I am in the middle of doing now.

I want to say thanks to everyone who posted to help me out - it was greatly appreciated. I will update as I progress on this renovation project.

edit to add: I now smell like simple green ;)
 
Sounds good. I applaud to Radioman. Same problem to my old Chevy truck that the engine was sputtering sounds like ran out of gas, when I switched a dual fuel tank switch, the engine was back to normal running. I knew there was cracked fuel hose at the tank, didn't fix it since. Because the broken fuel hose make a fuel pump will not siphon well.
 
Loose wheel steering? Umm, try to take a look at the rubber couple at the steering box where the steering shaft attached, that mounted on the side of the frame, have someone to play the steering wheel. If the couple looks loose, replace it. Or bad rod ends? HTH, Dst
 
I bet no one thinks I will respond or might be right, but we had an old van when first married many years ago. Tie rod problems made the steering loose.
 
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I bet no one thinks I will respond or might be right, but we had an old van when first married many years ago. Tie rod problems made the steering loose.

Beat me. I can't think how to spell "Tie rod ends". My brain is toasted due to my age. Thanks for head up. Dst
 
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it was the steering coupler. I found another vacuum hose leak and fixed it. Also, since it has an 84 motor in it, the oil drain bolt is 1 inch away from the truck frame (hence ... the swear jar). I will never be able to take the oil drain bolt completely off unless I pull the engine out (you did notice the swear jar right?)

I do not think that engine has EVER had an oil change. Until today. I had to patiently wait while the oil ..... dripped .... out.


The steering coupler was fixed this morning, along with replacing the leaking vacuum hose and it got an oil change. There is no more play in the steering, no stalling issues and it no longer runs rough.
 
Wow what an old truck and still running? Gee thats amazed.

Have you thought of getting F-250/350 Diesel? My friend just bought 97 Powerstroke crew cab, and it appears to sip less Diesel than mine. Not sure why, it even has turbo and bigger engine. The weight is just 900 lbs less than mine. My truck weights 10,000 lbs his old truck weights 9.300 lbs.

My grandpa used to have that truck. :)

And yeah I agreed that for you car isn't ideal for you.
 
Big old truck! My childhood friend used to have one before he passed away. It was a '73 Ford F250 4x4. It's lifted with big wheels on it and has 4 speed manual. It's pretty strong engine and picks up speed pretty quickly. It can do burn outs, too! I think it was a 390 cid V8.
 
Sounds like your truck get better a lot and spend little money on the parts. Oil drain plug cant come out. Wow. Where is the oil drain plug location? bottom? side or front of the oil pan? You put an engine from other model year yourself? ( I saw the post#1).
I used to working on Ford trucks/vans at the truck shop, had been seen the oil pans like front drain plug hole or bottom or side of the oil pans. Some of them were different oil pans that used in 460 cid motors. Sorry, I cant remmby the shape of the pans look like.
 
I wonder if you can put a '74 oil pan on that block.

You know that oil pick up screen with fixed tube must used with original oil pan
cuz Ford like GM or Chrysler, have many different oil pans that fit one block.
 
I will take a look at my service manager's '75 F250 4X4 w/ a 460, to see what shape of the oil pan looks like.
 
You know that oil pick up screen with fixed tube must used with original oil pan
cuz Ford like GM or Chrysler, have many different oil pans that fit one block.
Good point.

If you have to use the oil pan that's on there, a new plug can be installed in a better place. The pan would have to be removed and a new bung (threaded hole) welded in a new place. May not be worthwhile.
 
Good point.

If you have to use the oil pan that's on there, a new plug can be installed in a better place. The pan would have to be removed and a new bung (threaded hole) welded in a new place. May not be worthwhile.

Yes, depend on how the welding torch can reach or access inside the sump to weld bung.
I welded a nut (metric threaded nut used to fasten the bolt) inside the transmission oil pan of my old Chevy Astro van, it was so easy because of the shallow pan and easy to drain dirty ATF then remove a pan and replace a filter. Most older domestic vehicle doesnt have drain plug in trans pans.

I dont know if Stienhauser's truck may have bad motor mounts. The engine might be bottom out the crossmember where the drain plug cant come out?
 
If it has bad motor mounts, it will have many other problems too.
 
I went to a gas station afterwork from another gas station, to take a look at my service manager's F250 4X4, saw the oil drain plug is on the bottom of the oil pan (460 motor). The oil pan is rear sump like Chevy big block. As I examined the oil pan under the truck as open space as easy to reach the oil drain plug. My service manager move his truck out of the gas station every mornings and someone like cashier or co-worker move his truck into the service bay at the end of day. He doesnt want his truck on the parking lot for overnight. He seldom drive it for his pleasure cruise. My deaf mechanic who work with him, told me that he bought it from an old customer for $800 cuz he (original owner) doesnt want to spend the money on the repairs, get a rid of it. He (service manager) fix up this truck. This truck is straight body, no rust and original emission system. Very nice truck.
 
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