Windshield "fog" Question

The Highlander said:
What brand of system you use?

My Subaru use Python.
Python - Vehicle Security | Remote Start | GPS Tracking

My brother's Honda use valet.
Amazon.com: Valet 561R Remote Start with 2 TX: Electronics


My friend own Dodge RAM 2001 (I asked him for what year is). He use "ready remote" but he don't have anti-theif system and power window.

Without anti-theif system is very easy job to install the remote start system. His wife own Ford explorer with anti-theif system. I just like forget it.
Ready Remote™ Commitment
Click to expand...

Python Remote/Security system is nice. 1 mile radius with two way remote. Way cool!!.

Mine is a "Spy" Remote/Security system that have "microwave" motion sensing, shock sensing system, can roll up power windows if left attended, voltage indicator on remote to tell you how much volts in car battery, interior temperature of car, ect.. (pretty fancy huh). It's a cheap system but with 2 fancy two way remotes cuz I thought I am not planning on keeping Durango that long when gas price was $4 a gallon years ago... It can go up to 1,000 ft with two way remote. But the actual use when I was testing the system without remote start system, just unlock and lock doors, enable and disable alarm. It works fine when I'm outside about 100 feet from my truck and remote show full bars. BUT when I get into the building, just 10 feet after entering inside of door. Signal went to none. Because the building have foot thick of cement wall around it except dock doors, windows and few doors.

The first system somehow got glitched and died. I was thinking it was freezing outside with humidly that kills it when I left the door opened and played with remote. The black box isn't insulated. Luckily, the seller was willing to make an exchange and I got 2nd box and I'm leery about that (I am thinking about seal it with insulation and install it under the truck dashboard.). I was planning to install it during summer but I got too busy to do it and also was trying to figure out if I can directly connect Ignition sensing wire to Tachometer wire or not (that's one thing that stopped me whole time). Because instruction isn't detailed and Seller was unable get to the source of information about Ignition sensing wire. To be honest, the instruction book and wiring diagrams are not in perfect english (seriously!!). The way how foreign person tried to describe how to use the system was like trying to sign SEE to ASL deaf person. :shrug:

Maybe I can sell it for $75 bucks to anyone who have automotive with older ignition system and get hell with it. :roll:

Catty
 
purplecatty said:
Python Remote/Security system is nice. 1 mile radius with two way remote. Way cool!!.

Mine is a "Spy" Remote/Security system that have "microwave" motion sensing, shock sensing system, can roll up power windows if left attended, voltage indicator on remote to tell you how much volts in car battery, interior temperature of car, ect.. (pretty fancy huh). It's a cheap system but with 2 fancy two way remotes cuz I thought I am not planning on keeping Durango that long when gas price was $4 a gallon years ago... It can go up to 1,000 ft with two way remote. But the actual use when I was testing the system without remote start system, just unlock and lock doors, enable and disable alarm. It works fine when I'm outside about 100 feet from my truck and remote show full bars. BUT when I get into the building, just 10 feet after entering inside of door. Signal went to none. Because the building have foot thick of cement wall around it except dock doors, windows and few doors.

The first system somehow got glitched and died. I was thinking it was freezing outside with humidly that kills it when I left the door opened and played with remote. The black box isn't insulated. Luckily, the seller was willing to make an exchange and I got 2nd box and I'm leery about that (I am thinking about seal it with insulation and install it under the truck dashboard.). I was planning to install it during summer but I got too busy to do it and also was trying to figure out if I can directly connect Ignition sensing wire to Tachometer wire or not (that's one thing that stopped me whole time). Because instruction isn't detailed and Seller was unable get to the source of information about Ignition sensing wire. To be honest, the instruction book and wiring diagrams are not in perfect english (seriously!!). The way how foreign person tried to describe how to use the system was like trying to sign SEE to ASL deaf person. :shrug:

Maybe I can sell it for $75 bucks to anyone who have automotive with older ignition system and get hell with it. :roll:

Catty
Click to expand...

My Python have two-ways and it's 1,000 ft. Remember it's 6 years old, if someone kick or break my car then my remote will vibrate to alarm me. I can open the windows by remote during hot summer. Cool?
 
purplecatty said:
Hey Ya all...

Every morning, your Car or Truck sitting outside of driveway or parking lot overnight and when it's cool out with dew on Windshield in the dawning of the day.....

When engine is cold and is running, have you ever wonder why your Front Windshield won't clear out quickly when using wiper no matter if you already replaced it with new wiper. Every wipe that Wiper does, the windshield quickly "fogs" in seconds. :squint:

IF any of you have Rear Wiper... Using Rear Wiper did clears out quickly and leave no "fogs" on Rear Windshield. :shrug: :dunno2:

What I know is that the 'film' depost on Front Windshield is causing problem. 'Films' on Windshield usually came from oil, dust, chemical, bugs splats goo, ect.. that are hard to remove.

Does anyone have solution to the problems with Front Windshield. The only thing is when engine is warm enough and run defrost and it'll clear out "fogs" outside of Front Windshield (heat through the glass to outside dissipates the "fogs"). Not everyone have patience to wait before going to Work or drop kids off to School ect..

Catty
Click to expand...
yeah, Wash your front windshield once and a while. There is also special windshield washer fluids that can help too but they are expensive.

Here are a couple of links that show you how to make your own.

How to Make Your Own Anti-Fog Glass and Windshield Spray | eHow.com

How to make your own Anti-Fog Window Treatment
 
The Highlander said:
It is not true! My Subaru 2001 is OBD-II and it have remote start system. It's work fine for over 6 years. It must be depend of brand or human error.
Click to expand...
I'm back, I agree w/ you and catty over the brands of alarm systems that may come with or without remote starts and human errors. I had been seen on some vehicles that exhabited no start, driveablitiy problem. On a customer's car(Honda), I restored the cranking signal wires away from the aftermarketed alarm box that was where the wires were cutted, routing to the alarm box and ignition switch. Suspected defective alarm box but it works with power lock doors. I know nothing about the aftermarketed alarm boxes cuz of no electrical diagrams.
Then the customer came back and complaint no remote start on a same car. My service writer told a customer that the alarm box defected. That was about 5 years ago. I guess the newer systems are better than older systems. I could be wrong?
 
deafsmogtech said:
I'm back, I agree w/ you and catty over the brands of alarm systems that may come with or without remote starts and human errors. I had been seen on some vehicles that exhabited no start, driveablitiy problem. On a customer's car(Honda), I restored the cranking signal wires away from the aftermarketed alarm box that was where the wires were cutted, routing to the alarm box and ignition switch. Suspected defective alarm box but it works with power lock doors. I know nothing about the aftermarketed alarm boxes cuz of no electrical diagrams.
Then the customer came back and complaint no remote start on a same car. My service writer told a customer that the alarm box defected. That was about 5 years ago. I guess the newer systems are better than older systems. I could be wrong?
Click to expand...

Yup, It happened to me. The first "black box" I had got defective, it died on its own. So I got an exchanged "black box" and haven't installed it.

Security/Remote system sometime don't last long after many uses or up to 5 to 10 years. Because electronics in "black box" are exposed to extreme temperature changes frequently that make its life short. Unless they're using Military Grade electronic components. (There are three grades of electronic components such as Customer, Industrial, and Military). Eg.. Cochlear Implant uses Military grade components that last 20+ years. I asked Dr about it). There are extra fuses rigged from blackbox for protection. You might want to trace the wire from blackbox to find extra fuse hidden under dash that might have been blown.

Alot of time, Aftermarket Remote/Security system are wired by either customer, friend or installer. Sometime they cut up wire and hook it up. I don't cut wires, I just split the wire insulation and wrap the wire on bare spot and solder it. Except for ignition cut-off relay that require cutting ignition wire and re wire it to relay. You can always find wiring diagrams from Remote/security's brand website or some website provides "general" wiring diagrams. Every vehicles are basically the same except certain models that require extra device to "fool" the OBD II computer into thinking the key/transponder are already in. Or some vehicle use positive grounding. I know it's a hassle to figure it out but you can always trace it back from out to in under dash and write down each connection setup according to Automotive wiring diagram from Mechanic book or print out from Online wiring setup for Remote/security system. Sometime they wired it wrong that can damage or screw up in car wiring system due to that either they're color blinded or second guessing that's the wire without using voltmeter or test lamp. That's the negative part of installing Remote/Security system. It took me 2-3 hours per days (3 days total) to figure out and hook up wiring (I was taking it slow and one at a time). I'm 3/4 done with wiring and it's still hanging out under dash without black box for 6 months cuz I was too busy with other thing and ignition sensing issue that stopped me proceeding my project.

I am planning on going over my friend's house to use the voltmeter and measure the average voltage of "ignition sensing" wire (22 guage insulated wire that wraps 5 or 6 times on ignition spark wire) to see how much voltage go thru. If I find out it's less than 15v, I would plan on directly connect "Ignition sensing" wire to tachometer wire under the dash so that I wouldn't have to go through hassle with Coil on Plug issue. I was making sure I'm not going to damage the "black box" over it. I'm aware that "black box" "ignition sensing" connector have capacitor across it cuz I took the box apart and inspected its board.

I need to get thing going before Mother Nature snowed down on me. I wanted to fire up Durango remotely while I am at work cleaning up mail ect before I head out. So I can have a warm truck with seat heated for my butt to sit on :rofl: (I have built-in "butt warmer" front seats.). I didn't care about the City law that fobid anyone to leave car running unattended. It's just only for 5 to 10 min. I have done that many time and no one ever notice it cuz too many cars on parking lot. I had extra key so I locked the vehicle. Now with Remote/security system, I wouldn't have to worry about carrying extra key.

Catty
 
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deafsmogtech said:
I'm back, I agree w/ you and catty over the brands of alarm systems that may come with or without remote starts and human errors. I had been seen on some vehicles that exhabited no start, driveablitiy problem. On a customer's car(Honda), I restored the cranking signal wires away from the aftermarketed alarm box that was where the wires were cutted, routing to the alarm box and ignition switch. Suspected defective alarm box but it works with power lock doors. I know nothing about the aftermarketed alarm boxes cuz of no electrical diagrams.
Then the customer came back and complaint no remote start on a same car. My service writer told a customer that the alarm box defected. That was about 5 years ago. I guess the newer systems are better than older systems. I could be wrong?
Click to expand...

It make sense to me.
I use wire jump clip to connect to wires. It's better than electrical tape for three way wires due engine vibrate and make wires loose. So the wire jump clip is good for vibration-proof.

This is wire jump clip look like.
e6q1ok.jpg



No one perfect.
 
The Highlander said:
It make sense to me.
I use wire jump clip to connect to wires. It's better than electrical tape for three way wires due engine vibrate and make wires loose. So the wire jump clip is good for vibration-proof.

This is wire jump clip look like.
e6q1ok.jpg



No one perfect.
Click to expand...

I've used clip on some part of the wiring that I don't want to cut. The problem is that some wires which are 12 guage and sensing wire are 22 guage, the clip don't have that so I had to split the insulation of 12 guage and wrap 22 guage wire around and solder it then tape around it. That's the exception. It depends on how good you tape it with electrical tape (I wrap around wire 4 to 5 times and secure it).

Catty
 
purplecatty said:
I've used clip on some part of the wiring that I don't want to cut. The problem is that some wires which are 12 guage and sensing wire are 22 guage, the clip don't have that so I had to split the insulation of 12 guage and wrap 22 guage wire around and solder it then tape around it. That's the exception. It depends on how good you tape it with electrical tape (I wrap around wire 4 to 5 times and secure it).

Catty
Click to expand...

Good thing I use my friend's clip packs. The pack has all size. Soldering is better than twist the wires. Smart move.
 
purplecatty said:
Hey Ya all...

Every morning, your Car or Truck sitting outside of driveway or parking lot overnight and when it's cool out with dew on Windshield in the dawning of the day.....

When engine is cold and is running, have you ever wonder why your Front Windshield won't clear out quickly when using wiper no matter if you already replaced it with new wiper. Every wipe that Wiper does, the windshield quickly "fogs" in seconds. :squint:

IF any of you have Rear Wiper... Using Rear Wiper did clears out quickly and leave no "fogs" on Rear Windshield. :shrug: :dunno2:

What I know is that the 'film' depost on Front Windshield is causing problem. 'Films' on Windshield usually came from oil, dust, chemical, bugs splats goo, ect.. that are hard to remove.

Does anyone have solution to the problems with Front Windshield. The only thing is when engine is warm enough and run defrost and it'll clear out "fogs" outside of Front Windshield (heat through the glass to outside dissipates the "fogs"). Not everyone have patience to wait before going to Work or drop kids off to School ect..

Catty
Click to expand...

You cant really avoid water condensation. You can reduce it, by cleaning film off window, add rainx compound to your windshield, roll down side windows to let fresh air in to balance water condensation between inside and outside. After condensation problem is solved, roll up window and adjust window heater.
 
Jtm said:
You cant really avoid water condensation. You can reduce it, by cleaning film off window, add rainx compound to your windshield, roll down side windows to let fresh air in to balance water condensation between inside and outside. After condensation problem is solved, roll up window and adjust window heater.
Click to expand...

I have RainX and it did work for short while but inside of Durango's window, it look little like "waxy" smears. (application said that you must rub with cloth till it become clear) I applied it every glass inside and outside. It did help but when it's freezing out, ice forms on outside glass including mirror. So I stopped using it. :shrug: Harsh Kansas weather...

I will be going to Auto part store and look for different brands whichever can cut fogs quickly or prevent it :lol:

Catty
 
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