- Joined
- Jun 7, 2008
- Messages
- 3,034
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ARRGGGHH!! the title says it all. I blew the brake line for my second vehicle for rear brakes and I left it sitting there since last sept.
Well, with the weather is warmer now, I decided to work on 2 cars at once. I replaced front pads, calipers, rear drum pads, wheel cylinders and parking brake self adjusters on the first car. I was able to firm up the brake pedal by turning on ABS cycle 5 times after waiting 10 secs with key on/off. Thene Bleeded all 4 wheels in specific order perfect!! first car done. no problems! love the short pedal distance, nice and firm and stops nice and straight. All is good right?! I am happy so on to next vehicle.
I started on my blazer by jacking it up onto stands and remove rear tires and inspect everything. uh oh- rotors rusted, has scoring. pins frozen in calipers for both front and back. sigh.. more money. I could just suck it up and try cleaning it up and rebuild them, but the parts alone is only 10 bucks less then whole new calipers, so I forked over some serious wad for for 4 new calipers, got rotors turned, I was able to exchange my pads for warranty replacement and got new steel brake lines along with one rubber hose. I was able to replace everything with no issues and then started to bleed the lines. hmmmm , I got some bubbles, but not as much I thought I would. I thought I kinked the lines or didnt tighten the connections somewhere. I went back over every inch of line and everything seems to be in order.
Now what do I do?! I turned to google and found that my model of blazer requires a ABS scan tool to activate the darn abs pistons to purge the air from abs block. Or another option is to try to drive it and get the ABS to kick in and then try to bleed lines again. I just don't feel comfortable with that soft or near no brake pressure. Since the brake fluid was drained from rears leaking and replaced line from abs block, I know I have air in that block, but I dont have the EXPENSIVE abs scan tool so I can just bleed the darn ABS block so I can bleed the rest of lines. Does anyone have any ideas?!
Well, with the weather is warmer now, I decided to work on 2 cars at once. I replaced front pads, calipers, rear drum pads, wheel cylinders and parking brake self adjusters on the first car. I was able to firm up the brake pedal by turning on ABS cycle 5 times after waiting 10 secs with key on/off. Thene Bleeded all 4 wheels in specific order perfect!! first car done. no problems! love the short pedal distance, nice and firm and stops nice and straight. All is good right?! I am happy so on to next vehicle.
I started on my blazer by jacking it up onto stands and remove rear tires and inspect everything. uh oh- rotors rusted, has scoring. pins frozen in calipers for both front and back. sigh.. more money. I could just suck it up and try cleaning it up and rebuild them, but the parts alone is only 10 bucks less then whole new calipers, so I forked over some serious wad for for 4 new calipers, got rotors turned, I was able to exchange my pads for warranty replacement and got new steel brake lines along with one rubber hose. I was able to replace everything with no issues and then started to bleed the lines. hmmmm , I got some bubbles, but not as much I thought I would. I thought I kinked the lines or didnt tighten the connections somewhere. I went back over every inch of line and everything seems to be in order.
Now what do I do?! I turned to google and found that my model of blazer requires a ABS scan tool to activate the darn abs pistons to purge the air from abs block. Or another option is to try to drive it and get the ABS to kick in and then try to bleed lines again. I just don't feel comfortable with that soft or near no brake pressure. Since the brake fluid was drained from rears leaking and replaced line from abs block, I know I have air in that block, but I dont have the EXPENSIVE abs scan tool so I can just bleed the darn ABS block so I can bleed the rest of lines. Does anyone have any ideas?!