Bleeding brake lines on gm with ABS

I did bled brakes on 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan Sport. I have NO problem with it because it have ABS braking system. I replaced calipers, brakes pads and shoes. Then bleed the brake with engine shut off. I asked my wife to press pedal real hard and I loosened the bleeder a bit to let air out and shut it off. I asked her pump few times and press hard and stay there. I did repeat application on each brakes. After that I test drove van and brake was firm and stop short. I can feel ABS pumping when I slammed the brake. It was excellent. A month later, Driver who drove 2003 Chevrolet Alvanche decided to clip me while I was driving van passing through green light. I slammed the brake and it slid because it was chilly and dew in the evening of November and crashed into rear wheel cowl of Alvanche, sent truck spin 180 degree. My van was totalled. I was pissed BIG time because I had all brake replaced and planning to keep van until engine give out. Guy's insurance paid me $8K and I bought 2005 Dodge Durango.

Catty
 
catty - that suxs to have all that work to be destroyed. I had no problems bleeding brakes on a malibu and buick and honda. Its just this particular truck that had me pulling my hair out which is why I posted here. If you did a search on 1997-2000's years blazers you will see they ALL had same frustration as I did.

I posted my results hoping that it will save the next poor sap who needs to replace the brake lines and bleed on s10 blazer.
 
radioman said:
catty - that suxs to have all that work to be destroyed. I had no problems bleeding brakes on a malibu and buick and honda. Its just this particular truck that had me pulling my hair out which is why I posted here. If you did a search on 1997-2000's years blazers you will see they ALL had same frustration as I did.

I posted my results hoping that it will save the next poor sap who needs to replace the brake lines and bleed on s10 blazer.
Click to expand...

Make sense. I agree with you that some particular models can be a pain in the butt. My 05' Dodge Durango have issue with remote control. Two of remotes gone bad in less than 2 years and it cost over $500 to have key dongle made and re-program it. I read that many Durango owners had similiar issue and they are very pissed at Chrystler and there are no re-call on that particular model.. Many owner complained that after they got new replacment and it went bad in 6 month up to 1 years. They spent $180 for new one each time and they were so :mad2: and :pissed:

I'm not gonna to get it fixed because many other remote on different models and brands of SUVs don't have any issue on that.. My friend have 06' Dodge Dakota and his remote went bad and he spent $500 on reprogramming at Dealership.

I can order one in Ebay BUT... It's too late for me to manually program Durango ECM for additional remote. I tried to fix two old remote but it won't work. I knew chipset inside of it was fried or went bad.

As for my Durango brake, I'll check it out to see if there are any issue with bleeding brake on ABS system. It have ABS.

To be honest with you, I noticed ABS was darn good on Durango than 2001 Dodge Caravan Sport. Caravan's ABS was slow and pulsating while Durango's ABS pulsates extremely fast and it felt like I hit highway rumple pad at 70mph :lol:

Catty
 
I hear you on the remote issues. For the kia van , it has a chip in key where if I wanted a new key made, I cant get it locally, even just for unlocking the door so I can get my regular keys out of the van by accident if needed. I have to go to the dealer and have new keys made and then reprogram ALL keys I have and that was not cheap. :pissed: :roll:
 
Still do not believe the original thread topic has been solved.

I have a 1999 s10 blazer with the kelsey hayes 310 abs system

it needs purged of air also

i can see the two rubber caps that cover the bleed valves that are used with the special tool that can push those in.

to my understanding these are the Isolation valves and not the dump valves
to bleed the dump valves manually and not taking the car down a dirt road i believe there are Torx on the same sides as the bleeder valves are
see this picture i found
zjlimited_595.gif


here is also some good info i have found on the operation of the abs module
Bleeding ABS Systems: Brake and Front End

pictures 3, 4 and 5 are really good info i believe.

anyhow i could have started a new thread but i think this is a good place for the question
how to bleed abs module MANUALLY without driving and no pressure bleeder.
thanks
hope you like the info i dug up
 
Tdbone - I dug up thee same info as well. The tool you are referring to - I tried to make one out of old metal strap for shipping and did the same. In my case, the valves in the module STILL slammed shut stopping the bleeding. This is what really frustrated me. What I did was simply take a weed sprayer, removed the wand leaving the hose. I disconnected the line that goes directly to axels I needed to bleed from the kelsey hayes box . I filled the weed sprayer with brake fluid and connected hose to brake line I disconnected. pumped it up about 5 times ( any more you are going over 10 lbs and that is way more then enough.)I opened the bleeder and waited till the fluid came out and no bubbles and close bleeder. I did this process twice just to make sure but it didnt seem necessary, but hey fluid is not expensive. If it for the rear, do the other side too. Then you can rehook the brake lines and bleed again. You can use that tool you are referring to or you can do what I did - drive truck on grass and slam on the brakes making abs kick in making the valves in abs module move in and out. REbleed it and you will have no more issues.

All I can tell you that it worked for me. I am just glad its done and I can drive it safely now.
 
Hello, I'm back.... hey you fixed it by using a weed sprayer. What a clever. I never thought of something else before. I've been bleeding the brake fluids for years and never use pressure bleeder (old school type). Cheer up. Dst
 
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