Honda: Used 5 speed manual transmission

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deafsmogtech

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I got an used 5 spd manual tranny today from Nippon Motors. I check the input shaft (similar to Mainshaft) to see if the input shaft rotates smooth. Yes its smooth and tightest like new. No meshing or grinding felt. Delight.. can't wait until weekend.
 
deafsmogtech said:
I got an used 5 spd manual tranny today from Nippon Motors. I check the input shaft (similar to Mainshaft) to see if the input shaft rotates smooth. Yes its smooth and tightest like new. No meshing or grinding felt. Delight.. can't wait until weekend.
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Pix? :)
$$?
 
Last Friday evening (end of the shop day) I pulled my Honda car into my favorite service bay, saw mechanic pulled a 1955 Chevy Belair into the alignment rack, yelled at him, use 1st bay but he leave home in hurry. I asked a shop helper to move it to another bay, told him I need this rack for my car to be alignment after tranny replacement. He said sure, move this $35K Belair to 1st bay, close all garage doors, leave me alone in the bay. I removed tranny from Honda in about 1 1/2 hour, transfered shift lever assembly, clutch fork w/TO bearing, and VSS. I also removed flywheel again for replace new rear main seal, reinstall flywheel then put tranny back. with subframe installed, I check align slot holes and scribed marks on the body and frames, they are in proper align, then torqued subframe bolts. Lowered the car, I hop in, put my left foot on the clutch (engine 0ff) pump the pedal, found the pedal won't release itself, say like what, I pull the pedal by my hand and slow pump, the pedal travel was no good, almost floor the wall. I check brake fluid in clutch master, ok, no sign of fluid leak around the slave cylinder. Puzzled, I suspect air trap in hydraulic line, I didn't open a bleeder screw during R&R tranny. I keep pump the clutch pedal as the pedal obtain better effort but I don't like it. No time to recheck it, I was in hurry to open the garage door for my car to exits from the bay to move in the alignment rack, I found out the MBZ car parked on the outside just toward the garage door. I asked a cashier a key for MBZ, he say a customer paid RO, took a key with him, told a cashier I will be back to pick up his MBZ tomorrow morning. I was upset cuz I already put new 4 tires. Pardon me..... I go to work for now. To Be Continue
 
... At 9:15 pm on the same day, I drove it home without any mechanical problem, the used tranny is good, no meshing or grinding felt, still not pleasure with low clutch pedal. Next morning (my dayoff) I check the fluid leaks on the driveway, no leaks found, inspect the clutch fork and pushrod in a slave cylinder, seem ok. I can't see the Throw-out bearing inside the bellhousing. I did check fluid leaks under the dash, no leaks from clutch master. I decide to clamp the hydraulic rubber hose between master cylinder and slave cylinder, verified the clutch pedal, still firm no freeplay that indicates clutch master cylinder is fine, I pinpoint the slave cylinder problem for air trap inside, I connect my homemade brake bleeder with clear plastic tube to the bleeding screw, open it, found no air, full fluid flow out of the slave cyl as I keep to refill brake fluid into the reservoir. Slow pump the clutch pedal with my hand as I watch bubbles inside the clear plastic tube. No bubbles found. I tight bleeding screw. The clutch pedal remains same problem. I grew little frustrating with low pedal. I took a slave cylinder, disassemble it,found nothing wrong with it however I notice the fitting in the slave cylinder where the metal flared nut along with tube attached to the fitting, was swinging around, seem normal to me. I pinch 2 roll pins out of the slave cly, pull the fitting out,saw rubber O-ring inside that might cause low pedal. Impossible. I replace it with new rubber O-ring (from bulk of O-rings and seals in my tool box), put it back, keep the slave cylinder upside where the bleeding screw is on the top, connect it with clear plastic tube, perform bleeding procedure. After that, the clutch pedal still have problem with low travel distance, I decide to lean over the pushrod in clutch master under the dash for adjustment. I adjust it to obtain little freeplay pedal. I got it, feel better with proper clutch travel distance. I feel this pushrod adjustment is not helping the low pedal travel because I replaced new clutch kit last time the clutch pedal travel was beautiful, I swap an used tranny last nite then change the clutch pedal travel. Everything around or inside the tranny sound ok. Maybe I neglect the slave cylinder on the loose while R&R tranny.
 
I think the clutch slave cylinder is problem after notices the clutch pedal travels too low in cold morning, keep pump the clutch pedal until tight freeplay. There is no air pocket in hydraulic system. I will get new slave cylinder and clutch master cylinder someday to resolving low clutch travel distance. The car is ok to drive. My son says there is shaky steering wheel when braking. I told him Warped front brake rotors. I did turned the rotors last year. Geezy,, I get new 2 front brake rotors to correct the shaky steering wheel.
 
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