Brag about your car's miles!

The Highlander said:
images
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this head is from diesel I think. The aluminum cylinder heads use plain bronze or bronze alloy valve seat inserters, where the exhaust valves are pounding the valve seat inserts (referring to closed valves) in high revs and overtimes. That's how the valve seats goes sinking as the end of the valve stems are touching the camshaft side that leave no lashes (clearance) between camshaft lobes and rockers or followers, then create poor sealing and can lead to burnt exhaust valves.
 
deafsmogtech said:
this head is from diesel I think. The aluminum cylinder heads use plain bronze or bronze alloy valve seat inserters, where the exhaust valves are pounding the valve seat inserts (referring to closed valves) in high revs and overtimes. That's how the valve seats goes sinking as the end of the valve stems are touching the camshaft side that leave no lashes (clearance) between camshaft lobes and rockers or followers, then create poor sealing and can lead to burnt exhaust valves.
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Just look the picture. It looks like :(

BTW I found it from Stationary Engine Forum - View Single Post - Lister VA restoration
 
What happens if you ignore an engine with burnt valves? What will happen next after the valves get burnt? Probably loss of power, backfiring and stuff?

I'm going to do a compression test soon to be sure everything is working fine inside the combustion chamber. It's one of the good way to check the health of the engine. It's probably cheaper to get a compression meter with stuff than taking it to shop to do a compression test but it's waste of money using it just once in a long time.

I think a Honda 4 cylinder would register at normal range of around 150 to 170 psi, correct if I'm wrong.
 
sequoias said:
What happens if you ignore an engine with burnt valves? What will happen next after the valves get burnt? Probably loss of power, backfiring and stuff?

I'm going to do a compression test soon to be sure everything is working fine inside the combustion chamber. It's one of the good way to check the health of the engine. It's probably cheaper to get a compression meter with stuff than taking it to shop to do a compression test but it's waste of money using it just once in a long time.

I think a Honda 4 cylinder would register at normal range of around 150 to 170 psi, correct if I'm wrong.
Click to expand...

Quick-Connect Compression Tester
That's one I own it and it's pretty cheap and great tool.

First, you must disable the ignition system and fuel pump's fuse/relay.

Take all spark plugs off then put the compression tester in the spark's hole.

Turn key to start till you feels crank 2-3 then stop.

Write down the psi, they should all be within 10% of each other.

Like 1st 175psi, 2nd 178psi, 3rd 171psi, 4th 173psi are accept.
 
sequoias said:
What happens if you ignore an engine with burnt valves? What will happen next after the valves get burnt? Probably loss of power, backfiring and stuff?

I'm going to do a compression test soon to be sure everything is working fine inside the combustion chamber. It's one of the good way to check the health of the engine. It's probably cheaper to get a compression meter with stuff than taking it to shop to do a compression test but it's waste of money using it just once in a long time.

I think a Honda 4 cylinder would register at normal range of around 150 to 170 psi, correct if I'm wrong.
Click to expand...

Shaky engine at idling or MIL (CHECK ENGINE or SERVICE ENGINE SOON ) will alert you. Ignore sick engine is gain big money on the repair bills. That is why I love it.
Yes, the burnt valves can cause no power, backfires or poor gas mileage.
Well, best way to check the engine mechanical condition is Vacuum gauge. Healthy engine is around 18 to 20 inch HG at idle. If low vacuum reading, you should check compression test.
Yeah they are around 150 to 170 psi depend on engine temperature and compression ratio. I saw 215 to 225 psi compression (performed compression tester) in a Honda 2.0L, with warmed engine while conducted to investigating a failed emission for high NOx.
 
The Highlander said:
Quick-Connect Compression Tester
That's one I own it and it's pretty cheap and great tool.

First, you must disable the ignition system and fuel pump's fuse/relay.

Take all spark plugs off then put the compression tester in the spark's hole.

Turn key to start till you feels crank 2-3 then stop.

Write down the psi, they should all be within 10% of each other.

Like 1st 175psi, 2nd 178psi, 3rd 171psi, 4th 173psi are accept.
Click to expand...

Sound right, one thing you forget is WOT.

On Hondas, Toyotas and some Asian, you can use a starter remote instead of
turn ignition switch to cranking the engine. My favorite method. Why? You can feel the engine movement or verify camshaft or valvetrain movement (by inspect thru oil filler hole) if no movement then you would suspect broken timing belt or something.
more than 3 cranking rev is to getting good compression or watch the gauge's needle reach or stay either.
 
deafsmogtech said:
Sound right, one thing you forget is WOT.

On Hondas, Toyotas and some Asian, you can use a starter remote instead of
turn ignition switch to cranking the engine. My favorite method. Why? You can feel the engine movement or verify camshaft or valvetrain movement (by inspect thru oil filler hole) if no movement then you would suspect broken timing belt or something.
more than 3 cranking rev is to getting good compression or watch the gauge's needle reach or stay either.
Click to expand...

We never did WOT at school and work all times and it's read fine without WOT.

Also, I just googled up after you said. I don't see anyone said about WOT.

Engine Compression Testing

I believe they teach you about WOT for old school but no need for new school like ETC. Who know?
 
The Highlander said:
Quick-Connect Compression Tester
That's one I own it and it's pretty cheap and great tool.

First, you must disable the ignition system and fuel pump's fuse/relay.

Take all spark plugs off then put the compression tester in the spark's hole.

Turn key to start till you feels crank 2-3 then stop.

Write down the psi, they should all be within 10% of each other.

Like 1st 175psi, 2nd 178psi, 3rd 171psi, 4th 173psi are accept.
Click to expand...

Sounds easy to do that. I remember helping a friend to do a compression test long time ago on his '69 VW bug.

deafsmogtech said:
Shaky engine at idling or MIL (CHECK ENGINE or SERVICE ENGINE SOON ) will alert you. Ignore sick engine is gain big money on the repair bills. That is why I love it.
Yes, the burnt valves can cause no power, backfires or poor gas mileage.
Well, best way to check the engine mechanical condition is Vacuum gauge. Healthy engine is around 18 to 20 inch HG at idle. If low vacuum reading, you should check compression test.
Yeah they are around 150 to 170 psi depend on engine temperature and compression ratio. I saw 215 to 225 psi compression (performed compression tester) in a Honda 2.0L, with warmed engine while conducted to investigating a failed emission for high NOx.
Click to expand...

Explain more about how to do vacuum test?

deafsmogtech said:
Sound right, one thing you forget is WOT.

On Hondas, Toyotas and some Asian, you can use a starter remote instead of
turn ignition switch to cranking the engine. My favorite method. Why? You can feel the engine movement or verify camshaft or valvetrain movement (by inspect thru oil filler hole) if no movement then you would suspect broken timing belt or something.
more than 3 cranking rev is to getting good compression or watch the gauge's needle reach or stay either.
Click to expand...

Good advice for sure.
 
My car hasn't thrown a check engine light since April 2010. The last time it did that when the oxygen sensor was malfuctioning. It runs smooth and has smooth power delivery so I don't think there's an engine issue at all. I still would like to check, tho.
 
The Highlander said:
We never did WOT at school and work all times and it's read fine without WOT.

Also, I just googled up after you said. I don't see anyone said about WOT.

Engine Compression Testing

I believe they teach you about WOT for old school but no need for new school like ETC. Who know?
Click to expand...

Whoa... you have to open throttle while cranking the engine to obtain good compression reading no matter what throttle is ETC. It's important diagnostic. If the butterfly plate is closed, you get false compression reading cuz the air can't go thru the intake manifold where the pistons goes down with the exhaust valves closed and intake valves opened then create suck air inside the cylinders. Sound like you sell customer valve job head. Rip off whoa.... That is what the mechanics talk about.... money money money and women women women.
You can open ETC and crank the engine with disable fuel pump to get good compression readings. (Make sure the vehicle is running out of fuel by remove fuel pump or main relay). I'll pm you later .

Read 3rd paragraph of "How to Check Compression" again, "The throttle must also be held open" It is a part of WOT.
 
deafsmogtech said:
Whoa... you have to open throttle while cranking the engine to obtain good compression reading no matter what throttle is ETC. It's important diagnostic. If the butterfly plate is closed, you get false compression reading cuz the air can't go thru the intake manifold where the pistons goes down with the exhaust valves closed and intake valves opened then create suck air inside the cylinders. Sound like you sell customer valve job head. Rip off whoa.... That is what the mechanics talk about.... money money money and women women women.
You can open ETC and crank the engine with disable fuel pump to get good compression readings. (Make sure the vehicle is running out of fuel by remove fuel pump or main relay). I'll pm you later .

Read 3rd paragraph of "How to Check Compression" again, "The throttle must also be held open" It is a part of WOT.
Click to expand...

Okay. Whatever it's worked fine as in spec or almost same number from other cly. As idle control or ETC acts as "open" throttle. Maybe I was wrong or forget about WOT.

I never thinking about money and women. You got wrong person. :P
 
sequoias said:
Sounds easy to do that. I remember helping a friend to do a compression test long time ago on his '69 VW bug.
Oh, I miss my ex bus/bugs. The compression spec. for air cooled engine is about 120psi and low CR about 8.5:1 or less.


Explain more about how to do vacuum test?
Well, the vacuum gauge test is to measure mercury, and evaluate the mechanical condition such as valvetrain and sealing of the piston rings/valves. Also it can check vacuum leak by abnormal reading of gauge like needle sweep slow from 15 to 13 hg forth and back that indicates broken vacuum hose/line or bad intake manifold gaskets or can be scretched timing chain or misalign timing something like that.

Good advice for sure.
Click to expand...
welcome
 
sequoias said:
My car hasn't thrown a check engine light since April 2010. The last time it did that when the oxygen sensor was malfuctioning. It runs smooth and has smooth power delivery so I don't think there's an engine issue at all. I still would like to check, tho.
Click to expand...

Honda's frequently MIL on is Heated O2 sensors. Not too expensive job. Cute.
 
The Highlander said:
Okay. Whatever it's worked fine as in spec or almost same number from other cly. As idle control or ETC acts as "open" throttle. Maybe I was wrong or forget about WOT.

I never thinking about money and women. You got wrong person. :P
Click to expand...

:lol:, Visit me at a gas station in SoCal anytime. See inside and outside of the gas station, you will love it for sure. Why? 2 deaf mechanics love gas stations for many reasons...... fast money, easy & relax work, women.
 
WOT... will install WOT chip way later on... can't wait :D
 
200,000 still running good.
I will plan to get another "USED" car.
 
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