A Motorcycle Thread About Absolutely Nothing!


Well-Known Member
Yeah, I believe it, my husband has a heated suit, but wouldn't go out in this cold.

It would be interesting with the ice we've had too. Saw a jeep off the road this morning.

Friend of mine just got a dirt bike. We're going to stud the tires for this winter out on the lake. Should prove to be interesting :laugh2:

The Highlander

New Member
The latest changes to my motorcycle. Flag with holder, flag cover, replaced fluid covers with eagles.

Not shown is my new communications between Reba and me. It is the standard Honda comms from Wingstuff. In the helmet microphone and stereo ear speakers. We can talk to each other or we (i) can listen to the radio or if the GPS is on, it overrides to give me directions. Cool!

Can you take a picture of your buttons? Please? I can't get out of my mind why tincansailor have too many buttons? Are they useful or useless?


If You Know What I Mean
Premium Member
Can you take a picture of your buttons? Please? I can't get out of my mind why tincansailor have too many buttons? Are they useful or useless?

I've played with Goldwing at dealership. on big bike like that... these buttons are usually for radio, intercom, heaters, navigation system, reverse, and even suspension setting. The switches on right handlebar (chrome box) is definitely custom add-on... probably for LEDs.


probably 70% of these buttons are useless for you because it's related to intercom and radios.


Well-Known Member
Premium Member
I've played with Goldwing at dealership. on big bike like that... these buttons are usually for radio, intercom, heaters, navigation system, reverse, and even suspension setting. The switches on right handlebar (chrome box) is definitely custom add-on... probably for LEDs.


probably 70% of these buttons are useless for you because it's related to intercom and radios.

I will try to describe mine using your pic even though I have a few more:

- Behind the left handlebar is a lever to open/close the toe warmer doors.
- Levers on both sides next to the speakers lets you adjust the windshield height.
- Lower left buttons are power headlight height adjustment, emergency flashers, lower driving lights, up/down suspension adjustment, and memory 1 and memory 2 for the suspension adjustment presets.

- On the left handlebar: Top is for CB vol, channel selection, CB-SQL.
- High/low beam, volume control, turn signals, tune/disc, horn, mute volume, and search/seek buttons.

- Center buttons from the top left: audio/CB/I-com/Navi.
- 1,2,3,4,5,6 radio memory presets for the FM and/or AM stations.
- FM, AM, Select buttons.
- CD, WB, Aux. "WB" automatically goes to the national weather service. "Aux" is for something like a Serius/XM radio. It is pre-wired.
- Round knobs are volume and bass, treble, balance, front/rear speakers.

On the right handlebar: Top 3 toggles, fork lights, Ring of Fire lights on front rim, and under body accent lighting.
- Cruise control buttons, on/off, resume/accel, set/decel, RVS (reverse).
(Put trans in neutral, push the RVS button and then hold down the starter to back up. All audio cancels during reverse operation).

Lower right panel is Navi system: Zoom, menu, map, back and the 4-way/accept button.

Up at the display screen in the middle shows either the GPS or audio controls and whether they are on mute, speakers or intercom.
- Display button shows positions of the above choices.
- Info button shows outside air temperature and ride level position.
- Trip shows 2 settings for miles and a reset.
- Dim button is for the dashboard lighting levels.
- The horizontal wheel on the left is for seat heater, right wheel is for grip heaters. The rear seat has it's own temperature control on the left rear side.

And, while we are at it, I have a remote on the key chain to lock/unlock the two trunks up to about 50 feet away.

The only thing i do not have is a CB or the 6-CD changer which can be installed in the box behind the rear seat.

I hope this does not make ya'all more confused.



Well-Known Member
Premium Member
Mounted the GoPro on the windshield. Self-sticking base. The camera can be unfastened and attached to a suction cup base and placed on a car. I attached a 80 lb fishing line to it and up through the windshield vent to keep it from flying away (insurance).

Also received a new lower cowling from my daughter and son-in-law. The old one's finish was pitted and scratched. Could not shine it.


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Active Member
Don't you have a heated riding suit?

I don't either.

I rode 1 1/2 hours to Lake Malvern, KS and it was 38 degree out and windchill approximately at 24 degree while riding between 70 to 85mph on highway. I was wearing 2 layer of hooded sweatshirt and motorcycle jacket, wore a jean, thick leather motorcycle chap over it. 1 pair of socks and pair of cowboy boots. I flipped hood over my head and put on modular helmet. Wore windproof/Waterproof BiLT gloves.

How it feels? It feels comfortably cool all the way. My only complaint was small part front of my throat was cold. That's it. I personally don't mind riding at that temperature.

Heated Jacket, Gloves and Pant would be nice to have. I would have to spend over $500 bucks for it, then I would be happy to ride at 10 degree. But the BIGGEST risk is BLACK ICE!!!!! Forget about it!!

Few weeks ago, My co worker rode his Harley to work and overnight temp was 24 degree. It was frosty that morning when I got off work. His motorcycle still there and I bet he rode home then afterward, he stopped riding ever since. I guess he nearly turned himself into Popsicle. :rofl:

Seriously, nearly 20 years ago, I remmy I headed to work in my car Friday night and temperature was MINUS -10 degree outside. I was waiting on stoplight. What freaked me out big time was the bearded Harley guy rode his chopper wearing just tank top, jean and boot.. nothing else rode across the intersection :eek2: He looked like he's stoned or high on something riding in -10 degree weather!!! I bet he arrived bar as a Popsicle.

Can you imagine he was riding 45mph and windchill would be -44 degree :cold:

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Active Member
Since it's winter and I can't go out to have fun with my bike, I decide to do modding on my bike, I removed Air Valve from left side of engine and "Football" shaped filter cover from right side. Basically I wanted to go "Nekked" to expose two Jugs (Vtwin cylinders). Although it is 800cc but everyone always think it's 1500cc cuz the waterjacket on both cylinders made it looked big. I thought why not!!

What I did:

--Removed Air Valve and tubes

--Removed "Football" air filter case, breather tube and rubber "pipe" to carburetor

--Cap both small holes formerly Air Valve brackets w/ tube on both sides of cylinder next to Exhaust ports. (I basically sawed off brackets and have friend weld middle hole then I grind it flat then bolt it back in to cap it, Save $$ than ordering Air Valve modification kit for $29)

--Install Universal 60 mm Cone (Similar to K&N Filter) filter directly on top of Carburetor under gas tank

--Order pair of Mikuni Main Jet and Idle Jet (Main Jet Size 157.5 or 160 and Idle Jet Size 40) because of Universal Cone Air Filter would allow twice more air than OEM causing engine to run lean. Modifying Jets would justify it. This would allow me to install Vance & Hine or Cobra straight pipes as an option (Volusiarider.com blogger says that having K&N or Universal air filter directly to Carburetor and Stock or Aftermarket pipes would require re-jetting from 132.5 (main) and 27.5 (Idle) to 155 or 160 (Main) and 40 (Idle) to balance air/fuel mixture)

--Add .05 MM washer as "Shim" to Needle so it would be "higher" to allow more fuel flow

--Get chrome bolts to cap screw holes on Cylinder wall (formerly Air Valve and Air Filter cover bracket bolts in) to make nice appearance.

Caution: It's not for "Faint of Heart" cuz it's an extreme modding (I know most Suzuki VL800 owner would be scared to do it) :rofl:

My pix is kinda fuzzy because of iPad2 sucky camera.

What ya think??


Junks removed from my bike and sitting on top of Cruzin Cooler scooter :giggle:



Active Member
I'm finished with modding my bike and fired up engine. It seem sound louder than before and rode out when it's warm week ago (50's out) and my bike seem a little aggressive and gruffy. Glad that I set the jet correctly. No backfiring or lags.

What I did on Carburetor:

-- Replaced #132.5 Main Jet to #145 Main Jet

--shim the needle (large needle in middle of carb intake with black slider). I use two of .005 inch washers that I bought from Radio Shack cheap (50% off) cuz it have exact size washer to fit into the needle.

--Tweaked Air/Fuel mixture needle to 2 1/2 turns

It fires up easier now. I noticed improvement and now I have "naked Jug" which mean no Air filter and Air valves on both sides of engine. It's worth my time.

Where did I got the information, I got it from www.volusiarider.com and blogger have exact same motorcycle as mine and I followed his configuration, so did other Suzuki VL800 owner too.They have great information on re-jet. They did recommend Dynojet needle but they also mentioned that shimming the OEM needles works but runs a bit leaner. I prefer run little leaner than Dynojet needle that runs richer. So It's a tried and true method.

Now it's time for me to replace tires and clutch. As for clutch, I contacted Barnett Clutch co and they emailed me suggesting that I should get Carbon Fiber clutch kit (Carbon fiber clutch plate, friction plate and springs in kit) because I rides hard sometime and it's good for stop and go traffic.



Well-Known Member
I am taking a coast to coast trip on my GL1100 in July. A friend is making the trip with me on an 83 Yamaha Virago 750. Anyone else is welcome to join, even for a portion of the trip. We will be staying in National Parks and bringing light camp gear.

It will be the southern route (I-10) and the trip will either start on Saint Simon's Island, or Orlando.

Also - there is a reason I am making this trip. It is to honor my wife's grandfather who passed away last summer. He was 93 and he and I were close. The last conversation we had was about me making this trip. He told me to do it. It was the last thing he told anyone anything - he passed away the next morning and I was the last person to see him. He was a D-Day Veteran and Navy Officer - also served in Korea. There is a chance the Navajo Hopi Honor Guard will escort us through Phoenix. I also have a friend North of Phoenix who is letting us stay on her property to camp. She lives on an ancient Indian ruin.


Active Member

I was browsing through Ebay for 1157 LED bulbs and Motorcycle LED headlights. Now I am seeing different type of LED bulbs (1157, 1156 ect). My main reason is because I wanted LED flasher bright enough to be seen during daylight. Right now they are selling newer 5050 type LEDs, Cree LEDs and Base15 LED and plus newer COB LEDs too.

I ordered COB 1157 lamp, 65 LED 1157 lamp at a really cheap price. Just wanted to see how bright it can shine under sun.

All Ebay LED lamp pictures base on night time display. To me Why can't they just show it under bright sun to see the difference huh?? :rofl:

I have handful of old Chinese made LED 1156 and 1157 LED lamps and they're sucky. It's not bright enough under bright sunlight. My friends can't see turn signal flashing and brake light lit on. So I switched back to Indescadent. That was about 4 years ago.

Now, I went to Walmart and spotted 1157 LED (White) lamps ($15 for pair). I decide to buy one to experiment. I plugged it to my bike Brake light. It seem really brighter than Chinese made by comparison. And the way light lit for parking and brake was really nice. But it is stepping little closer to be able to see under bright sunlight.

I just simply wanted to switch to LEDs so I don't have to replace incandescent bulbs when it burns out.

I am turning my head to newer LED headlights. IT's a new arena for me and I planned to replace Halogen for LED. It's a superbright LED lamp with cooler on base. One have fins on end. Usually superbright LED lamps tend to get very hot so copper inside draw heat to fins for cooling. I learned that 50 watts LED is eqavalent to 75 watt Halogen. I decide to go for 30 watts LED which is equal to 50 watts Halogen which is enuf for my bike. It cost $30 for one. Life of LED headlamp is 30,000 hours. :hmm:

Don't buy the one sells less than $10, one that have no cooler base on it. It's not gonna be bright as you expected. Get the one that have cooling fins under base and it's much more brighter (I'm sure that it'll blind you like a crap)

THere are many other LED headlamps that costs more than $30 and it's damn so bright equivalent to 100w to 150w Halogens! It would be good for your cars and SUV or trucks. As for Motorcycle, forget about it. It's way too bright and it's gonna blind driver and lights up the sky. :rofl: Cops can easily spot you 10 miles away. Forget about it.

If you wanting to remind me about "hyperflashing" on turn signals, Don't worry, I already bought and installed LED compatible flasher relay so Load Resistors are not needed at all.