Carbuetor issue on Suzuki Volusia

[purplecatty]

Recently today, It was warming up this afternoon and I got home from work and decide to grab chance to ride my motorcycle just to run around the block in order to keep everything circulated (oil, antifreeze, battery charged, fuel) after a month of sitting in garage. The engine seem doesn't want to stay idle. I tried to adjust idle jet and it wouln't stay running. I suspect carb needed to be rebuilt because it had been used little by owner for 8 years (I suspect 1,000 miles per year). I removed the air filter and fired up. It backfired a little and still won't maintain idle so It's not the filter problem.

I am thinking about rebuilding carburetor soon. I went to Suzuki dealership part dept and they told me it cost $250 for a kit. But I found in some website called "Jet kit" for Volusia. It did not have 2 major parts that needed to be replaced.

I might try take it all apart and clean it out first.

Do anyone recommend carburetor cleaning solutions that works best on motorcycle carburetor?

Catty

 

[green427]

I took apart the carbs on my PC800 and soaked them in a Pine Sol solution for 24 hours. You can do the same with Simple Green, etc.

First thing I would do is drain the float bowls. Today's gasoline formulas really suck, all of my power equipment are hard to start these days. You could simply remove the jets and use a needle to clean the tiny holes, put them back, and it might do the trick.

To prevent carb varnish deposits from building up, you should always put either StaBil or Seafoam in the tank, ride it for 15 min, then store the bike.

Before you do any carb work, try removing the gas in the tank, drain the carb bowls, put fresh gas in with about 1/2 can of Seafoam, ride the bike around for a half hour and see if that does the trick.

Don't forget, if you have 2 carbs, you will need to sync them after rebuilding.

 

[purplecatty]

I took apart the carbs on my PC800 and soaked them in a Pine Sol solution for 24 hours. You can do the same with Simple Green, etc.

First thing I would do is drain the float bowls. Today's gasoline formulas really suck, all of my power equipment are hard to start these days. You could simply remove the jets and use a needle to clean the tiny holes, put them back, and it might do the trick.

To prevent carb varnish deposits from building up, you should always put either StaBil or Seafoam in the tank, ride it for 15 min, then store the bike.

Before you do any carb work, try removing the gas in the tank, drain the carb bowls, put fresh gas in with about 1/2 can of Seafoam, ride the bike around for a half hour and see if that does the trick.

Don't forget, if you have 2 carbs, you will need to sync them after rebuilding.

Soaking it in Pine Sol. Seem it have many uses. You mean 100% Pine Sol solution or mix with water? I would be happy to try it.

I agree with you that fuel today sucks. I started to use Premium gasoline for my bike recently after advice from friends last summer, I noticed some improvement but doesn't help idle much. I'm very sure that once I rebuild carburetor, I would use Premium gasoline purely in order to keep carb clean.


Seafoam, it's commonly used for boat fuel additive. Worth a try.

I believe former owner never put stabil or seafoam in for 8 years and that probably why motorcycle carburetor is having problem now that fuel gunked up ect..

One of my friend suggested me to put ratio of transmission fluid mixed with gasoline and ride the bike. He said that it'll clean the carburetor inside out. I'm leery over it although the Transmission fluid itself is acidic and eats up gasket ect ( I have never experienced it).

Removing jet and clean it would be good idea but Suzuki doesn't recommend using pipe cleaner or anything solid to clean jet holes. It can damage the hole if use something to poke in. I would do as a last resort by removing jets and soak it in carb cleaning solution and use compressed air to clean it..

It is good idea to put in Seafoam in then run the bike around to see any improvement.

My bike have one carb so it's not much to do


Catty

 

[Steinhauer]

Use seafoam deep creep. It costs about $10 at any auto parts store. If you tried adjusting the needles, you will have to re-sync the carbs with a tool called a mannometer. They cost anywhere from $100 to $250 - or, you could make your own (although I don't recommend using water - use oil or transmission fluid):

How to make a water manometer

Your jet floats could be stuck from the varnish in the gas. If you know where to GENTLY TAP to unfreeze them, try that too.

I have rebuilt motorcycle carbs before.

BTW - seafoam is excellent stuff. If you know how to suck a bottle of seafoam directly into the carbs using vacuum pressure and a rubber hose, I recommend you do this only after the engine is very hot. After the bottle has been sucked into the carbs, shut the engine off and wait a half hour. Then, take it somewhere where a lot of friggin smoke will be ok, because it will smoke like you wouldn't believe. It will also be hard to turn over the engine. All of the smoke you see is the crystalized carbon gunk and varnish being cleaned out of the engine.

You can do the same thing to cars by sucking seafoam through the PCV valve.

 

[purplecatty]

Use seafoam deep creep. It costs about $10 at any auto parts store. If you tried adjusting the needles, you will have to re-sync the carbs with a tool called a mannometer. They cost anywhere from $100 to $250 - or, you could make your own (although I don't recommend using water - use oil or transmission fluid):

How to make a water manometer

Your jet floats could be stuck from the varnish in the gas. If you know where to GENTLY TAP to unfreeze them, try that too.

I have rebuilt motorcycle carbs before.

BTW - seafoam is excellent stuff. If you know how to suck a bottle of seafoam directly into the carbs using vacuum pressure and a rubber hose, I recommend you do this only after the engine is very hot. After the bottle has been sucked into the carbs, shut the engine off and wait a half hour. Then, take it somewhere where a lot of friggin smoke will be ok, because it will smoke like you wouldn't believe. It will also be hard to turn over the engine. All of the smoke you see is the crystalized carbon gunk and varnish being cleaned out of the engine.

You can do the same thing to cars by sucking seafoam through the PCV valve.

Gently tap jet float, My carb is under the gas tank and under frame as well. I would have to remove tank and remove the carb is all I need to do.

It's more likely I would have to remove carb and take it all apart and soak it in solution like guy mentioned above post and leave it in for a day then clean it and put it all back together.

I forgot to mentioned that I am not sure if my engine is knocking or not. I don't know what engine knock is like. When it was idling while I was throttling little to keep it running (otherwise engine will die if I don't), I felt some kind of metallic thump a bit when engine was about to die ( it's not constant knocking, just every now and then). When I fiddle around the idle jet to "midrange" setting, idle was little better and smooth but I had to keep throttling and engine doesn't make metallic thump. Generally, while I'm riding, engine is smooth with no issue but when it's idling, it seem that when it is about to die and I keep it up, it make some kind of quick thump every now and then. It's not a hard metallic thump but I can feel it while my hand was touching the cooling fins while tuning the idle jet (It wasn't that hot when I rode motorcycle for 10 minutes).

I removed air filter and fired up and ran it, it backfires every now and then when I was maintaining throttle on idle.

Is that serious problem or was it just the carb ??

Catty

 

[green427]

Gently tap jet float, My carb is under the gas tank and under frame as well. I would have to remove tank and remove the carb is all I need to do.

It's more likely I would have to remove carb and take it all apart and soak it in solution like guy mentioned above post and leave it in for a day then clean it and put it all back together.

I forgot to mentioned that I am not sure if my engine is knocking or not. I don't know what engine knock is like. When it was idling while I was throttling little to keep it running (otherwise engine will die if I don't), I felt some kind of metallic thump a bit when engine was about to die ( it's not constant knocking, just every now and then). When I fiddle around the idle jet to "midrange" setting, idle was little better and smooth but I had to keep throttling and engine doesn't make metallic thump. Generally, while I'm riding, engine is smooth with no issue but when it's idling, it seem that when it is about to die and I keep it up, it make some kind of quick thump every now and then. It's not a hard metallic thump but I can feel it while my hand was touching the cooling fins while tuning the idle jet (It wasn't that hot when I rode motorcycle for 10 minutes).

I removed air filter and fired up and ran it, it backfires every now and then when I was maintaining throttle on idle.

Is that serious problem or was it just the carb ??

Catty

Backfiring usually means a lean mixture.

The Pine Sol solution I used was 50/50. I used a little wire to clean the jet holes, the jets are made of brass. They are not as fragile as you think.

If you are not sure, take it to a bike shop. Yes, you will end up paying about $200-$300 for them to fix it.

 

[purplecatty]

Backfiring usually means a lean mixture.

The Pine Sol solution I used was 50/50. I used a little wire to clean the jet holes, the jets are made of brass. They are not as fragile as you think.

If you are not sure, take it to a bike shop. Yes, you will end up paying about $200-$300 for them to fix it.

Ok thanks for info about Pine Sol solution mixture, That's what I need. As for cleaning jets, Yes, it's typically brass. It's not fragile but it does nick or scratch easily. I think Suzuki warned against using pipe cleaner because if it scratched or nick the edge of jet, it can affect the performance. I would just use hard plastic "wire" which is as thin as metal wire. I've use compressed air many time to blow clean the carb with no problem.

I've rebuilt carburetor on some small engine and cars. Motorcycle carb is pretty much the same.

Yeah, about sending motorcycle to shop, it'll cost even more because the rebuild kit cost $250 plus the service. I don't want to hassle with it.
Catty

 

[Steinhauer]

Gently tap jet float, My carb is under the gas tank and under frame as well. I would have to remove tank and remove the carb is all I need to do.

It's more likely I would have to remove carb and take it all apart and soak it in solution like guy mentioned above post and leave it in for a day then clean it and put it all back together.

I forgot to mentioned that I am not sure if my engine is knocking or not. I don't know what engine knock is like. When it was idling while I was throttling little to keep it running (otherwise engine will die if I don't), I felt some kind of metallic thump a bit when engine was about to die ( it's not constant knocking, just every now and then). When I fiddle around the idle jet to "midrange" setting, idle was little better and smooth but I had to keep throttling and engine doesn't make metallic thump. Generally, while I'm riding, engine is smooth with no issue but when it's idling, it seem that when it is about to die and I keep it up, it make some kind of quick thump every now and then. It's not a hard metallic thump but I can feel it while my hand was touching the cooling fins while tuning the idle jet (It wasn't that hot when I rode motorcycle for 10 minutes).

I removed air filter and fired up and ran it, it backfires every now and then when I was maintaining throttle on idle.

Is that serious problem or was it just the carb ??

Catty

Are you sure the thump wasn't a backfire? I am only asking because I can't hear it backfire with my helmet on and HA off. But, it does feel like a thump when it backfires.

 

[Steinhauer]

Backfiring usually means a lean mixture.

The Pine Sol solution I used was 50/50. I used a little wire to clean the jet holes, the jets are made of brass. They are not as fragile as you think.

If you are not sure, take it to a bike shop. Yes, you will end up paying about $200-$300 for them to fix it.

you can even use an eyeliner brush to clean the jet holes.

 

[Jiro]

I take it that you didn't use fuel stabilizer when your bike was sitting in your garage for a month. You should be starting it up and letting it warm up at least once a week for like 10 minutes.

the water (from fuel) gunks up your engine and fuel line.

 

[purplecatty]

I take it that you didn't use fuel stabilizer when your bike was sitting in your garage for a month. You should be starting it up and letting it warm up at least once a week for like 10 minutes.

the water (from fuel) gunks up your engine and fuel line.

Perhap so.. But it was already lurching during summer after I bought it. Owner haven't put fuel stabilizer in for 8 years so that explains why carburetor seem clogged. I messed with idle jet and it seem won't speed up or slow down engine idle, assuming that fuel gunk clogged it..

I doubt water gunks up my engine and fuel line, It had been garaged and been dry as usual.

I will go ahead and get Seafoam for my motorcycle.

I hope that I get my day off on Wednesday so I can work on carburetor.

Catty

 

[Jiro]

Perhap so.. But it was already lurching during summer after I bought it. Owner haven't put fuel stabilizer in for 8 years so that explains why carburetor seem clogged. I messed with idle jet and it seem won't speed up or slow down engine idle, assuming that fuel gunk clogged it..

I doubt water gunks up my engine and fuel line, It had been garaged and been dry as usual.

I will go ahead and get Seafoam for my motorcycle.

I hope that I get my day off on Wednesday so I can work on carburetor.

Catty

the water's from evaporation or whatever from fuel... hence the purpose of fuel stabilizer

Whether you own gasoline engines, or diesel engines – STA-BIL® products can help keep fuel fresh. From Regular STA-BIL® , for use in your collector car, RV, or lawn equipment during storage, to Marine Formula STA-BIL® for use at every fill up in your boat, jet ski, or snowmobile to protect against the damaging effects of Ethanol. And now, there’s new DIESEL Formula STA-BIL®, to help protect against corrosion, water attraction and breakdown of diesel fuel in diesel engines.

STA-BIL Fuel Stabilizer is America’s top selling fuel stabilizer. Stored fuel can go bad in as little as 30-60 days causing gum, varnish and corrosion to build up in the fuel lines and engine. STA-BIL is recommended to be used AT EVERY FILL UP in all vehicles and equipment to protect against corrosion caused by today’s Ethanol-blended fuels.

 

[purplecatty]

This late evening, I decided to work on my motorcycle and took gas tank off and remove hoses (both gas and vacuum) and throttle cables off. I finally got carburetor out. I went :jaw: The carburetor intake from filter side to engine side all black!!! It look like wet film of varnish in it. It certainly NEED cleaning badly. I checked to see if carburetor jets had been modified, Nope.. It's all original (Main jet is capped) so it means that it have never been touched for 9 years. I am going to take carburetor all apart and dunk it in solution to clean it.

Before I took carburetor out. I poured in 1 oz of Seafoam in gas tank and fired up the motorcycle and let it run just a minute (the fuel line was dried out and my bike won't fire up until fuel was pumped into carburetor cuz it had been sitting for weeks). I should feel better that tank been taken care of. I swished the tank to mix Seafoam in gas well enough.

Last week, I have been browsing through Volusia blogs and found tons of information about jets. Now that I understand how to upgrade jets. One is main and other is Pilot. Whenever if I decide to use K&N filter, upgrade Exhaust or both. I would have to swap out Main jet set for bigger one (one with bigger hole) and also Pilot jet set too in order to improve performance and provide more fuel to make it run smoothly. I read that it can increase 5% horsepower. After reading blogs and checked out Mikuni and Dynojet website, I felt comfortable to do it in future. For now, I will just leave jets alone because I have not upgrade filter or exhaust pipes yet. I would just mess with Pilot jet. IT says 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 turns would be enough but Factory set to 1 1/2 turns.

Let's see what improvement after I clean the carburetor. The air filter is a little dirty and never been replaced. I planned to replace filter. Though filter is permanently glued to the plastic "football" shaped board. I would just simply cut filter out and grind glue out with dremel with mill bit (to clean glue out of black board) then fit in new replacement filter if I can find matching one (it's not that hard to find). They runs about $50 and up for OEM replacement. I can easily hack and modify it then insert filter that I can find less than $10 at auto parts.

Tankless Bike

Look Ma!! No tank (Throttle linkage with bracket been removed, I know what I'm doing)

Top of Carburetor

Dirty air filter (my Cruzin Cooler in background )

Bottom of Carburetor

Catty

 

[Steinhauer]

That black stuff is carbon build up. Varnish looks like a red putty.

and this is how your supposed to clean your carbs with seafoam:

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KfQyTxQVHrk]YouTube - Seafoaming the GPz[/ame]

hope this helps and good luck with your rebuild.

 

[purplecatty]

That black stuff is carbon build up. Varnish looks like a red putty.

and this is how your supposed to clean your carbs with seafoam:

YouTube - Seafoaming the GPz

hope this helps and good luck with your rebuild.

Reminds me of smoking the hamburger in BBQ grill

As for my motorcycle's carburetor, it's really dirty and Seafoam would clean partially. I read Volusia blog regarding about Seafoam usage. They said that if carburetor had not been regularly maintained and engine stalls or dies while on idle, it's time to rebuild carburetor. Seafoam would only clean some part of it and it won't be much help. The idle adjustment is already maxed out and can't screw any more further and it's not keeping idle going. So that's why I have to remove carburetor and clean it entirely so from now on after cleaned carburetor, I would use Seafoam to maintain clean carburetor and it'll last long (I bet really long time). STA-BIL would work the same and is cheaper than Seafoam.

Catty

 

[purplecatty]

My friend and I had been discussing about cleaning carburetor. He said that Transmission Fluid would clean parts very well and it'll keep every parts "wet" meaning film with remaining tranny fluid on all parts if soaked in and cleaned.

He use Tranny fluids to clean old pneumatic impact wrench that his co worker almost threw it away cuz it's not working well. He took it home and poured in tranny fluid in the air hole where compressor hose connects to. He hooked hose up and give it a whirl for couple minutes. The wrench started to improve and became strong. He saw it spits out gunks and stuff. He took it all apart and inside of it was very clean. He saved $350 and have two of them.. It was MAC tools impact wrench. Lucky for him.

He also use tranny fluid to mix with engine oil (he poured in right amount of tranny fluid into oil sprout of engine. Then he fired up engine and let it run for few minutes then shut it off then drain oil/tranny fluid mixture and poured in fresh oil. He noticed car ran better than before. His brother does same thing and he said before hearing hydralic lifter making noise. After pouring in tranny fluid into oil sprout like my friend did. His brother hear hydralic lifter fading away it clicking while running. Car ran so much better and changed oil right after that.

He suggest me the benefit of using tranny fluid to clean motorcycle carburetor. I agree with him cuz tranny fluid is also acidic as well. I would wear nitrile gloves while dunking and cleaning motorcycle caburetor into Tranny fluid

Catty

 

[purplecatty]

YEEAAHH!!!

I finally had time to work on carburetor. Couple days ago, I took carburetor apart and tried to remove ventri (funnel like) ring on top of carb like you see on pic above. I used electric impact driver to remove couple of screws cuz it had threadlock in its thread. Somehow I chewed off both screws . I decide to move on cuz it's a minor issue to me. I unscrewed and removed carburetor float cover, assemblies ect then cleaned it with Gum Out Carburetor spray. I also removed most jets and cleaned it with toothbrush and blast it with compressed air.

Today, I went to Harbor Freight Tools to grab bolt remover tool. I got home and drilled on center of broken bolts. Then use bolt remover and tried to turn it but it won't. I use Mapp gas torch to heat it up briefly on inside side of carburetor where bolts located. It finally soften threadlock and able to unscrew it. Luckily, I got both off. I went to hardware to get couple of black Hex bolts instead of rounded head phillip bolt (original bolts). Because It is easier to remove it than rounded head bolt. After returning from Hardware store, I put threadlock on bolt thread then screwed it in tightly. After that, I put all parts back together and put it back on my motorcycle.

After couple min of cranking then finally it sputtered and cranked one more time and it roars to life. I use choke to warm up engine. I crossed my fingers , hoping idle would stay on. It did stay idle better and had to tweak idle screw (not idle jet) to speed up the engine. The idle finally stay running long time without touching throttle and choke is fully opened. I rode motorcycle on wet road for 12 miles, I noticed BIG improvements!!! Now that throttle are smoooooth and silky!! No more lurching!! On steady speed while twisting throttle just 1/4 turn and stay there, it doesn't lurch anymore!! Now that is so much better!!

Now that I can keep carburetor clean with Seafoam or Fuel Sta-Bil if I plan to leave motorcycle in garage for a week or more.

My bike need new air filter, that's my next step to replace air filter

Catty

 

[Glenn]

Good work Catty!

 

[Jiro]

when using seafoam or fuel stabil, don't forget to completely cycle it before you won't use bike again for a while.

 

[purplecatty]

when using seafoam or fuel stabil, don't forget to completely cycle it before you won't use bike again for a while.

I will

Catty