Brag about your car's miles! - Page 14

**Chevy57** · 05-13-2010, 04:32 AM

Wirelessly posted

Quote:

Originally Posted by JClarke

Picked up my car this evening, the leak I told them was actually a leak, the paper said

'inspected water leaking into cabin confirmed leak found A/C drain blocked causing the leak, unblocked A/C drain and road tested ALL OK'

It was the A/C drain which was blocked caused the leak, and no charge, it was covered by my car warranty = WIN.

The total fee I paid was $254.85.

You keep this receipt in your file and know to happen Ford s recall report. They may return money to you.

**JClarke** · 05-13-2010, 06:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chevy57

Wirelessly posted

You keep this receipt in your file and know to happen Ford s recall report. They may return money to you.

It costed me NOTHING - how would I get the money since it was under WARRANTY?

**Chevy57** · 05-13-2010, 07:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JClarke

It costed me NOTHING - how would I get the money since it was under WARRANTY?

Engine warrenty is five years good? I need your Ford s warrenty policy statement.

**sequoias** · 05-13-2010, 07:18 AM

Wirelessly posted

I thought it costs around 60 to 80 fee for inspect everything to be sure theres no faults on the car, but $254?

**JClarke** · 05-13-2010, 07:59 AM

Oh, correction - it was $245.85 - NOT 254.85, my bad.

I am currently busy right now, but I will type out the receipt of the service that is in part of the 15,000km service check up later on

deafsmogtech · 05-13-2010, 08:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sequoias

Wirelessly posted

No, 70 percent coolant, 30 percent water. It helps the engine to warm up faster in frigid weather and less water freezing up.

Oh, 30/70 looks like little coolant mix. I usually see the coolant mix percent
is starting on the front (first place) then last place of the water mix percent. If
I correct it? I learned it from the instruction label on the back of the coolant
container.

deafsmogtech · 05-13-2010, 08:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whatdidyousay!

I just had some work done on my car so I would pass auto inspection sticker.
The auto shop knew I needed the work done for this. I got a rejection sticker away! I spend $ 330 for the repairs , but the shop did not tell me that I had to drive my car about 50 - 100 miles so it could reprogammed itself! I am so piss off! I did speak the shop this and they gave a lame reason , they did not know I was getting my car inspected!

Shame on them for not inform you that your car have to be driving several miles to clear OBD-II monitorings. Huh, they didnt know anything?

deafsmogtech · 05-13-2010, 08:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Highlander

Also post a pictures please. I can't figure it out how to connection between braided SS brake line and O2 sensor. Welding? Force? Which part I should cut on the os sensor.

Sorry I dont know how post pics. I'm dunno. Anyway, I found one clip for you to view the back pressure test demo on youtube. Type " Exhaust back pressure testing" on youtube. This demo is exact what I did back pressure test. The guy in the clip will show you the old O2 sensor modified to an adapter. Cool.
I have not try on a braided SS brake line to mod my vacuum/pressure gauge. one thing is you have to cut the fitting end off from the braided SS line. I know
the gauge store sell a 15 psi pressure, 4 inch head gauage with threaded male NPT fitting, you can connect a braided ss brake line but costly.

**sequoias** · 05-13-2010, 08:51 AM

Wirelessly posted

Quote:

Originally Posted by deafsmogtech

Quote:

Originally Posted by sequoias

Wirelessly posted

No, 70 percent coolant, 30 percent water. It helps the engine to warm up faster in frigid weather and less water freezing up.

Oh, 30/70 looks like little coolant mix. I usually see the coolant mix percent
is starting on the front (first place) then last place of the water mix percent. If
I correct it? I learned it from the instruction label on the back of the coolant
container.

Deafsmogtech, yea youre right. I put it backwards, my bad.

deafsmogtech · 05-13-2010, 09:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jiro

well that's "oil change" and some superficial check-up but what Jake had was the 15,000km check up. That's different.

$200-ish is a typical price range for a complete check-up and sometimes re-calibration. Trust me - this doesn't cost $25. nope.

Re- calibration sound like retorque wheel lugs or chassis when the vehicle is newer, I think. I wish they charge customer for $25 but not.

The Highlander · 05-13-2010, 09:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JClarke

Picked up my car this evening, the leak I told them was actually a leak, the paper said

'inspected water leaking into cabin confirmed leak found A/C drain blocked causing the leak, unblocked A/C drain and road tested ALL OK'

It was the A/C drain which was blocked caused the leak, and no charge, it was covered by my car warranty = WIN.

The total fee I paid was $254.85.

And you said you don't use A/C a lot. Puzzled.

deafsmogtech · 05-13-2010, 09:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sequoias

Wirelessly posted

Is this for 7500 mile service (first major service) because they inspect stuff be sure nothings faulty, i think.

True

deafsmogtech · 05-13-2010, 09:35 AM

I go to work rite now, see you guys later

**Jiro** · 05-13-2010, 12:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Highlander

And you said you don't use A/C a lot. Puzzled.

doesn't have to. correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't A/C use same system as cooling system for engine and also for heater?

The Highlander · 05-13-2010, 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jiro

doesn't have to. correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't A/C use same system as cooling system for engine and also for heater?

Almost!

A/C and cooling system are different. A/C use compressor and you can turn compressor off/on by clutch control. The cooling system use water pump and water pump NEVER will turn off or engine become overheat quick.

This is water pump for cooling system and heater only.

This is compressor for A/C only.

The heater come from cooling system/water pump.

This is thermostat. It closed when engine is cold, when you warm the engine up till 180 F (I think) then thermostat will open. You noticed why heater won't work till engine warm up at winter time. But I never like idea about thermostat, when it stucked closed then engine become overheat and heater do not work.

The Highlander · 05-13-2010, 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by deafsmogtech

Sorry I dont know how post pics. I'm dunno. Anyway, I found one clip for you to view the back pressure test demo on youtube. Type " Exhaust back pressure testing" on youtube. This demo is exact what I did back pressure test. The guy in the clip will show you the old O2 sensor modified to an adapter. Cool.
I have not try on a braided SS brake line to mod my vacuum/pressure gauge. one thing is you have to cut the fitting end off from the braided SS line. I know
the gauge store sell a 15 psi pressure, 4 inch head gauage with threaded male NPT fitting, you can connect a braided ss brake line but costly.

Thanks! It's help that I looking for! I will try to do it. I will teach you how to post a picture at here after fix customer's computer.

The Highlander · 05-13-2010, 04:40 PM

Go to tinypic.com

**JClarke** · 05-13-2010, 05:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JClarke

Oh, correction - it was $245.85 - NOT 254.85, my bad.

I am currently busy right now, but I will type out the receipt of the service that is in part of the 15,000km service check up later on

Carried out service as per manufacturers recommendations including
replaced engine oil and filter
Checked raditator, heater and air conditioner
inspected drive belt condition and adjusted if required
Renewed pollen filter where fitted
inspected battery security and terminals, cleaned if necessary
inspected all fluid levels, tire conditions and pressure and spare
inspected lights, turn signals, insurments and controls
inspected exhaust system for signs of leaks damage and wear
inspected steering and suspension for security, damage and wear
inspected windshield wiper/washer and controls (water has been re-filled)
inspected operation of service and park brakes and warning lights
road test, checked vehicle on road as per handbook
WATER LEAKING AT FRONT OF CAR
Inspected water leaking into cabin confirmed leak found air conditioning drain blocked causing leak unblocked A/C drain and road tested ALL OK
BRAKE BOOSTER VACUUM HOSE - replaced in part of the recall replacement

Leak repair and recall both under warranty - therefore this is all for 245.85 fee, for the 15,000km service check up, not bad.

**Jiro** · 05-13-2010, 10:13 PM

**sequoias** · 05-13-2010, 10:35 PM

$245 fee just to inspect mostly? That's bs, sounds like rip off to me. Probably greedy for labor costs.

The Highlander · 05-13-2010, 10:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jiro

Go to youtube.com and type "girls scream in" and you will see why.

**Jiro** · 05-13-2010, 10:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Highlander

Go to youtube.com and type "girls scream in" and you will see why.

uh-huh..... I'm watching you.

The Highlander · 05-13-2010, 10:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jiro

uh-huh..... I'm watching you.

And?

**Jiro** · 05-13-2010, 10:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Highlander

And?

and I will let this slide just this time only but I won't next time. My hand's on telephone for 911

The Highlander · 05-13-2010, 10:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sequoias

$245 fee just to inspect mostly? That's bs, sounds like rip off to me. Probably greedy for labor costs.

I am agreed with you!

The Highlander · 05-13-2010, 10:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jiro

and I will let this slide just this time only but I won't next time. My hand's on telephone for 911

Go already.

**sequoias** · 05-13-2010, 10:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Highlander

I am agreed with you!

Yeah, could easily do a quick oil change for $30 and change the cabin air filter yourself, it's not that hard to do. Probably could do all this for less than $50.

Just take it to the shop to inspect for any defects, and not pay a $245 fee.

The Highlander · 05-13-2010, 10:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sequoias

Yeah, could easily do a quick oil change for $30 and change the cabin air filter yourself, it's not that hard to do. Probably could do all this for less than $50.

Just take it to the shop to inspect for any defects, and not pay a $245 fee.

VW Rabbit cost $55 for oil and oil filter and they last for 10,000 miles.

Yes, most cars cost around $30 for 3,000 miles.

**sequoias** · 05-13-2010, 10:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Highlander

VW Rabbit cost $55 for oil and oil filter and they last for 10,000 miles.

Yes, most cars cost around $30 for 3,000 miles.

Yeah, depending on how you drive your car. I changed my car oil every 5k miles back in Seattle. It might be 3,000 to 4,000 miles after the next oil change pretty soon.

It currently has 106,100 miles now.

The Highlander · 05-13-2010, 11:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sequoias

Yeah, depending on how you drive your car. I changed my car oil every 5k miles back in Seattle. It might be 3,000 to 4,000 miles after the next oil change pretty soon.

It currently has 106,100 miles now.

Right. I used change oil every 3k miles from Chicago. Now I change oil every 4,500 miles from QC.

05-13-2010, 07:59 AM	#395 (permalink)
JClarke I.T Guru Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Canberra, Australia Posts: 28,060 Blog Entries: 6	Oh, correction - it was $245.85 - NOT 254.85, my bad. I am currently busy right now, but I will type out the receipt of the service that is in part of the 15,000km service check up later on __________________ This is not a ASL version Owner of the Postwhore Club If you have 5,000 posts - please send me a PM requesting to join.

05-13-2010, 04:40 PM	#407 (permalink)
The Highlander Registered User Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 6,233	Go to tinypic.com __________________ "There are a lot of people that don’t like this software. It is because they don’t understand how to use the software and don’t realize it’s potential."

05-13-2010, 10:13 PM	#409 (permalink)
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05-13-2010, 07:18 AM	#394 (permalink)
sequoias Premium Member Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Iowa, the land of the cornfields and pigs Posts: 21,866	Wirelessly posted I thought it costs around 60 to 80 fee for inspect everything to be sure theres no faults on the car, but $254?

05-13-2010, 09:35 AM	#403 (permalink)
deafsmogtech Registered User Join Date: May 2009 Location: Surf City Posts: 1,592	I go to work rite now, see you guys later

05-13-2010, 10:35 PM	#410 (permalink)
sequoias Premium Member Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Iowa, the land of the cornfields and pigs Posts: 21,866	$245 fee just to inspect mostly? That's bs, sounds like rip off to me. Probably greedy for labor costs.